MountainZone.com Home

AAI Home

GEAR HOME

CHECK OUT:
Petzl Zoom headlamp
Motorola TalkAbouts
Transceivers
Lynn Hill Interview
Climbing Home






The World of Crampons

Charlet Moser S-12 Rapidfix
(Step-in)

[click to zoom]
The Charlet Moser S-12 is an excellent all-around crampon. The design is simple and functional, and while it is a touch heavier than comparable crampons, it performs better than most for general use.

The frame on this crampon is perpendicular to the points, so it is likely to hold less snow (reducing the annoying and dangerous "balling-up" phenomenon) than comparable crampons where the frame is parallel to the points. The points are medium in length, which helps for French technique and also makes it less likely to catch the points on a pant leg or gaiter on descent. This particular model is a full step-in, toe bail and heel lever, with very easy on and off. The step-in feature also makes it a little lighter than its cousin, the S-12 Rapidfix Lanieres. This crampon is constructed from Cro-moly steel, which is very durable and long lasting. There are also a couple of nice features to help adjustment: on the heel lever you will find a micro adjuster to help fine tune the fit on your boots, and on the strap lock you will find a standard screwdriver.

In my opinion, this crampon will be a piece of gear that will be with you for the rest of your climbing days.

The Fine Print
Wt: 1000g. or 35oz.
Cost: $137.95 (sugg. retail)
Size: Fits boot size (36-45 Euro) or 5 Women's Koflach Viva Soft to 11 Men's Koflach Degree.

Charlet Moser S-12 Rapidfix Laniers
(Hybrid or Pneumatic)

[click to zoom]
This crampon is almost identical to the S-12 step-in, but instead of a toe bail it has a strap toe (Scottish style, sometimes known as old-fashioned). The idea is that it will accept a wider variety of boots, or boots on which the toe is so worn that it offers no purchase for the bail. This design also makes it a little more secure on the foot. The reason that it is more secure is that instead of having the strap going around your ankle it goes through the strap ring at your toes and back to the lock rings. By doing this, the strap now runs along the top of your foot and makes it so that if the crampon comes loose it will not fall off as easily. Obviously it is best to have the crampon adjusted properly but this is a nice involuntary backup.

The Fine Print
Wt: 1040g. or 36.4oz.
Cost: $137.95 (sugg. retail)
Size: Fits boot size (36-45 Euro) or 5 Women's Koflach Viva Soft to 11 Men's Koflach Degree.

Accessories:

Antibott Plates
Wt: 140g or 4.9oz.
Cost: $36.95 (sugg. retail)
Size: Fits S-12 Rapidfix or Rapidfix Laniers
You can purchase what are called Antibott plates. Antibotts attach easily to the crampons by means of nine metal rings. The plates are made of rubbery type material which dramatically reduce balling of snow on your crampons. The down side to the Antibotts is that you need to more careful when walking across rocks or scree, the material is not that strong. They also add a little more weight to the crampons.

Extension Bars
Cost: $7.50 (sug. retail)
Size: This makes the S-12 go to size 15 US or more
This extension bar makes the crampon extend to size 15 or greater. You replace the existing bar so the weight difference is negligible.

Spare Screws
Cost: $2.50 (sugg. retail)
It is always nice to have one spare screw in your repair kit. Sold in pairs.

— Patrick Cook, Alpine Ascents International Gear Manager

AAI Home
[Climbing Home] [MountainZone.com Home]
[Gear Home]