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Pushing Limits, Professionally and Personally
27 SEP 2000 - ADVANCED BASE CAMP

Tim Boelter

My reason for climbing Cho Oyu is two-fold. First, I've never climbed an 8000-meter peak and this one is accessible, inexpensive and a straightforward route. Secondly, and more importantly, I came here to create a film documentary about the inside reasons, and climber dynamics, involved in an ascent of Cho Oyu.

This includes producing an informational film that depicts all the challenges involved in climbing an 8000-meter peak. In doing so, I have found that there is a great challenge in singlehandedly filming such an expedition. I have filmed documentaries on Aconcagua, whitewater kayaking, and done big wall camera work, but I have never experienced the difficulties of filming climbers on an ice wall at 22,000 feet up on a Himalayan giant.

On September 23rd, while jugging up the ice serac that separates Camps 1 and 2, I filmed team leader Daniel Mazur and fellow climbers Phillip Crampton and John Arnold as they negotiated the 50-foot barrier. For me, the challenge was setting up the shot, but unfortunately for my climbing partners below, the challenge for them was dodging the ice I dislodged on top of them.

Although I yelled "ice," Phillip was struck in the head and knocked off the ice wall while at the same time losing a crampon. John assisted Phillip in surmounting the remainder of the ice cliff. In order for me to complete the filming, I used my ice axe less and relied more on cramponing so as not to dislodge more ice.

Although the barrier was quite a challenge for shooting, many other challenges continued to evolve. Without a Sherpa, I found that carrying loads and filming would have to be managed in such a way that I could still capture every segment of the climb while still moving my high altitude food and gear up the mountain.

When your climbing partners are moving up steep snow slopes with heavy loads it's hard to ask them to break their rhythm and stop while I get in position to film. As a result, I find myself moving ahead quickly to get the shot. In trying to capture various shots I am continually breaking the flow of my own climbing tempo, which is really important in high altitude climbing. At altitude, your focus is on slow, steady movement with rhythmic breathing to help regulate a steady heart rate. In my case, I find that I have to put in sporadic bursts of energy to position for the shots. In doing this I am pushing my limits.

I have met with many challenges throughout this expedition. One such challenge occurred in Tingri, Tibet, on our approach to Cho Oyu. A small boy, his entire body badly burnt, approached me holding out his hand for money, along with his older sister. I looked at this sad boy, whose skin was charred black and cracked like alligator skin, and didn't feel right in filming his misfortune. The boy was extremely persistent that I film him for the money, so I did. I gave him some money and reached out to hold his charred, blackened hand and gave him a smile. He looked back at me and a wrinkled smile appeared from his soul. I wondered what his fate would be.

For me, this trip has become more than just documenting a climb. It's been about overcoming bronchitis, with coughing fits that last up to a minute; respiratory problems are prevalent on this expedition brought on by the extreme cold, dry air. I have suffered a fever brought on by I don't know what and I'm missing my wife to the point of wanting to leave the trip.

Sometimes the scenery, the climbing, and my attitude make this trip so intensely exciting that I truly feel on top of the world. Other times I question my motives for being here. How important is it really to climb this hunk of ice? Does it really matter? The challenge of climbing mountains is not just in the climbing, it's in challenging our inner fears and emotions by following through with our goal.

As a filmmaker, I've had the opportunity to interview many of the expedition members. I have learned that each of them has had their own challenges to deal with, internally and externally, throughout this expedition.

Tim Boelter, MountainZone.com Correspondent

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