Our journey takes us into historic Russia during a time of great excitement and transformation. Many of the areas we visit are among the most attractive in the region and provide unparalleled experiences for discovering the proud nations of newly independent countries. Elbrus' location provides a look into the cultures of the Turkish, Georgian, Azerbaydzhani and Russian people, as we make great efforts to explore these dynamic lands.

The expedition begins in the city of St. Petersburg, a traditional vanguard of European culture. It is one of the few cities in the world which has retained its charm while continuing to be a place of great change. Downtown sprawls with exquisite architecture canopying streets of shops, small restaurants and an active nightlife. We will spend time exploring the culture and character of this enchanting city.

Following our climb we return to the city of Moscow, the centerpiece of Russian life and the focal point of commerce and politics. Moscow is ever-changing with markets and state shops dominating street life. We will take time to visit the Kremlin and stroll Red Square along the Moscow River. Our tour will likely include the famous Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts.

As the highest peak in Europe, Elbrus is a premier ascent for aspiring climbers who wish to test their skills at increasing altitude. Although only basic mountaineering skills are required, high-altitude and unpredictable weather make this a challenging and extremely enticing ascent.

The Caucus Range
This mighty mountain range links the Caspian Sea to the Black Sea, and creates the natural boundary between the steppes of Russia and the southern states of Azerbaydzhan, Georgia and Armenia. Mt. Elbrus, the pinnacle of this 700-mile stretch, has long been a distinguished climbing center for the European and Russian climbing communities. Elbrus can easily be seen from most of the high passes in the area and is a traditional climb for those looking to ascend above 18,500ft. Caucasus (or Kavkaz which means 'more than mountains'), offers excellent climbing and skiing terrain to the outdoor enthusiast.

First Ascent
British Grove expedition with Akia Sottaev. 1874.

Notables
Elbrus was first attempted in 1829. Akia Sottaev initially climbed the lower east peak. Almost forty years later, in 1868, Sottaev was hired to be part of a summit attempt with British explorer, Douglas Freshfield. In 1874, six years after the unsuccessful attempt with Freshfield, Sottaev summitted with the Grove expedition. He was the first person to summit both peaks and was 86 years old at the time.

Alpine Ascents on Elbrus
During the past eight years, Alpine Ascents has had outstanding success leading trips to Mt. Elbrus. Our slow-acclimatization methods and experienced guides have assisted many advanced beginner and intermediate climbers to the summit. Our two 1998 expeditions were led by Vernon Tejas with outstanding success.. We highly encourage you to contact last year's climbers.

Alpine Ascents International is very fortunate to have close friends and an expert staff in Russia. In addition to local guides, Alpine Ascents International employs western guides on all trips. Alpine Ascents' close ties with Russian guides combined with our expert climbing staff, make this a highly unique and rewarding expedition. Climbing Mt. Elbrus requires basic mountaineering skills.

Elbrus Expedition Guides
Part of Alpine Ascents International's success is based on our small and select group of highly experienced guides. Guides are subject to change given the nature of guiding and its demanding schedules.

Past climbs have been led by the following guides:

• Todd Burleson: Director and founder of Alpine Ascents International, Todd has achieved unparalleled success in the mountain guiding industry and is one of the world's leading mountaineers. Todd spent most of his childhood in Alaska where his prowess and love for mountaineering were developed. In his eighteen years of guiding, he has led 8 expeditions to Mt. Everest, more than any other climber. He has guided successful expeditions on every continent. In addition to instructing mountaineering training courses, Todd has recently led successful expeditions to Rainier, Carstensz Pyramid, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Vinson and Everest. Most recently, Todd led a number of first ascents in the arctic region of Greenland. In 1998 Todd was awarded the American Alpine Club's prestigious Sowles award for his rescue efforts on Mt. Everest.

• Vernon Tejas: One of the world's most famed mountaineers, Vernon has summitted the highest mountain on each continent and has guided over twenty climbs on Denali. A charismatic leader, he is legendary for Denali's first solo winter ascent, the first solo ascent of Mt. Vinson and his role as a lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughn's ascent of Mt. Vaughn. In addition to his fame and expertise in the extreme environments of Alaska, Antarctica, and the Caucasus, Vernon's success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable. In addition to climbs of Elbrus, Vern has 100% success on Kilimanjaro. Vern's guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of dynamic spirit, climbing expertise, guiding savvy and a little amped fiddle. Vern lead Alpine Ascents two climbs of Mt. Elbrus in 1998.

• Wally Berg: One of the world's leading mountaineers, Wally is one of the most active climbers on 8,000meter peaks. In the spring of 1998 Wally completed his fourth summit of Mt. Everest, and was instrumental in conducting geophysical research for Dr. Bradford Washburn and the Boston Museum of Science. Wally has summitted Mt. Cho-Oyu, Mt. Lhotse (1st American), and Mt. Everest (4 summits). He has an outstanding track record on Kilimanjaro, with seven successful guided attempts in the past three years. Additionally, Wally has taught a number of courses at our mountaineering school and led trips to Mt. Everest ('95, '97, & '98), Mt. McKinley, Mt. Elbrus, and Mt. Vinson. Wally's strong confidence and winning personality make him a natural leader and guide. More than a climber, Wally fashions himself an outdoor educator. He's filled with stories of his twenty odd years as an international mountaineer. Wally led our Mt. Elbrus climbs in '96 and '97.

About Climbing the Seven Summits
Throughout the years Alpine Ascents has assisted climbers in reaching the highest point on each continent. As of July 1997, 6 of the 18 Americans to complete the seven summits have done a substantial portion of their climbs with Alpine Ascents International. Click here for the reflections of a seven summiter.

For those with Seven Summit aspirations, there is a logical progression which enables climbers to build on previously developed skills. This suggested program is economically prudent and considers technical skill level, acclimatization and summit success rates.

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Payments: $700 deposit, due with application. Balance due May 1, 1999

Land Costs Include:

• All transportation in Russia
  
• Hotels in Russia
  
• All group camp supplies, such as tents, stoves, etc.
  
• All group climbing gear
  
• All meals while trekking
  
• All hut fees
  
• Park fees, trekking permits and all tour fees
  
• Guides (including American guides)
  

• International airfare USA- St. Petersburg-USA
• Non-scheduled Airport Shuttles
• Snow-Cat and other optional transportation
• Personal gear (click for gear list)
• Excess baggage charges and airport taxes. Excess baggage in Russia can be very expensive.
• You are allowed only 20kg (44lb) of gear and personal items for the internal R/T flights in Russia
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Alpine Ascents International

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