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The Guides & Staff of Alpine Ascents

Guided climbing by Alpine AscentsOur staff of world renowned guides are full time climbers. Many of these guides have historical climbing achievements synonymous with their names. They are a part of Alpine Ascents because they understand and share our climbing principles. These individuals are dedicated to sharing their excellence with others.

The role of an Alpine Ascents guide is to impart knowledge, use calculated judgment and assist individual climber's development. Our guides are experienced educators who evaluate their strengths by monitoring climber's achievement. Thus, we stress our acute ability to provide students and expedition members with personal attention, realizing the commitment to assist each member in obtaining their goals.

Todd Burleson
Director and Founder of Alpine Ascents International

Todd has achieved unparalleled success in the mountain guiding industry and is one of the world's leading mountaineers. Todd spent most of his childhood in Alaska where his prowess and love for mountaineering were developed. In his fifteen years of guiding, he has led 8 expeditions to Mt. Everest, more than any other climber. He has guided successful expeditions on every continent, including all of the Seven Summits. In addition to instructing mountaineering training courses, Todd has recently led successful expeditions to Rainier, Carstensz Pyramid, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Gunnbjornsfjeld and Everest.

Peter Athans
Defined by his peers as "one of the greatest Himalayan guides around", Peter has summited Mt. Everest a record five times and has participated in 12 Everest expeditions during the past 14 years! He has an outstanding international reputation as a leader and guide. Peter's climbing expertise may even be overshadowed by his ability to guide and successfully assist others in reaching summits. Having lived in Nepal for a number of years he is an excellent resource on Nepalese culture. He is also an accomplished photographer and has completed a number of film projects, most recently with PBS' Nova. Peter has been climbing for almost twenty years and is certainly one of the world's finest guides. He has led Alpine Ascents' climbs to Everest, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Carstensz Pyramid and Vinson.

Willie Prittie
Director of the North Cascades Mountaineering School

Willi has been climbing, guiding and teaching for over twenty years. Director of the North Cascades Mountaineering School, Willi is considered one of the premier instructors in America and his students have had outstanding success in reaching personal goals. His profuse knowledge of mountaineering puts him in a class by himself. Willi is a Senior Guide for the American Mountain Guides Association and is responsible for accrediting new guides. Fluent in Spanish and well versed in South American culture he has developed an outstanding reputation for leading safe and successful trips. He is also a leading authority on guiding Aconcagua, having assisted over seventy people, in more than a dozen expeditions, to its summit. Willi has recently led climbs to Pumori, Cho-Oyu, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Rainier, Denali and Aconcagua.

Tom Bridge
Tom possesses twelve years of experience and an outstanding wealth of knowledge on climbing and guiding in Washington, Banff and British Columbia. He has spent a good part of the last seven years climbing in the North Cascades, conquering over 250 summits including a number of first ascents and winter ascents. He is certainly one of the finest instructors in the US and has an excellent reputation climbing and teaching on technical ice. He is a teacher committed to excellence and urges each student to push beyond their perceived limitations. Tom has developed a number of guide training and safety curriculums and has had outstanding teaching success on Mt. Baker. He has been instrumental in developing our Mountaineering School. Tom currently leads our expeditions to Aconcagua and Mexico's Volcanoes.

Wally Berg
One of the world's leading mountaineers, Wally has recently summited Mt. Everest for the fourth time. He is one of the most active climbers on 8,000m peaks and is considered one of America's top mountaineering guides. He has successfully summited such Himalayan giants as Cho-Oyu and Lhotse. (First American summit). Other noteworthy climbs include Antarctica's Vinson and an outstanding track record on Kilimanjaro. Over the years Wally has developed particular expertise on the mountains and cultures of Elbrus and Kilimanjaro. His patience and expert skills establish him as one of the most respected guides in the mountaineering community. Wally recently guided trips to Everest, Denali, Elbrus, Vinson and Kilimanjaro. [Click for feature story on Wally Berg.]

Frank Coffey
One of America's most recognized experts in Peruvian and Bolivian climbing and culture, Frank has been leading climbs world-wide for over fifteen years. Frank's personal climbing experience ranges from the big walls of Yosemite to 8,000m peaks in the Himalayas. He has several firsts ascents in the Andes including the north face of Nevado San Juan (19,165'), the west ridge of Japu Punta (19,160') and the southwest ridge of Ambrocca (19,840') and completed the first ski descent of Coropuna (21,700'). Along with these achievements, he has participated on expeditions to Cho-Oyu, Kanchenjunga and the North Face of Mt. Everest. Frank is an extraordinary outdoor leader, an AMGA Senior Guide and an avalanche forecaster for the Crested Butte Professional Ski Patrol and is a safety team member for the World Extreme Skiing Championships.

Mark Gunlogson
Mark has been guiding and teaching all levels of climbing in the Americas and the Himalayas for the past ten years. Notable guided climbs include 3 successful climbs on the West Buttress of Denali and guided ascents of Pik Lenin, Aconcagua, Mt. Elbrus, and numerous expeditions to the Andes, particularly Huascaran. After 20 years of climbing, Mark's personal achievements range from seven ascents of El Capitan, to the Bibler/Freer route on Nepal's Lobuje. He is a certified Wilderness First Responder and downhill ski instructor, and has served as a consultant and guide for Public Television. In addition to over twenty ascents in Peru, his skills as a freelance writer and photographer, and his extensive knowledge of South American cultures and environments make him an ideal leader for our Bolivian and Peruvian expeditions.

Ellie Henke
As an assistant guide, Ellie has added a superb dimension to our domestic and international programs. A naturalist by profession, Ellie has assisted Willi in guiding Aconcagua, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Mt. Baker, Rainier and more. She is an asset to every trip she joins, bringing a wealth of talents cultural knowledge and teaching skills. She is also an accomplished nature artist.

Lhakpa Rita Sherpa
Lhakpa has been working with us for the past eight years. As Sirdar (Sherpa captain) he organizes our team of 20 Sherpa for each Everest expedition. Lhakpa's climbing achievements are significant with four summits of Mt. Everest, one summit of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. He is a guide, leader and friend of the highest quality.

Jamie Pierce
Jamie's depth of knowledge and expertise has been a huge asset to our guiding team. He has taught climbing throughout the US and possesses a particular aptitude in training others. Jamie is a leading expert on Antarctica where he has spent five seasons climbing and supporting field research. Jamie also has a wealth of international guiding experience having led successful climbs to Elbrus, Mexico's Volcanoes, Kilimanjaro and a variety of climbs in France, Switzerland, Bolivia, Argentina, New Zealand and Canada. A charismatic and natural leader, Jamie led a number of our Mountaineering School programs last season as well as our Mexico Volcanoes, and Kilimanjaro Expeditions, both of which met with 100% success and outstanding evaluations.

Vernon Tejas
One of the world's most famed mountaineers, Vernon has summitted the highest mountain on each continent and has guided over twenty climbs on Denali. A charismatic leader, he is legendary for Denali's first solo winter ascent, the first solo ascent of Mt. Vinson and as a lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughn's ascent of Mt. Vaughn. In addition to his fame and expertise in the extreme environments of Alaska, Antarctica, and the Caucasus, Vernon's success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable, including a recent 100% success on Kilimanjaro. Vern's guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of his dynamic spirit, climbing expertise and guiding savvy, and are renowned in the guiding community. [Click for feature story on Vernon Tejas.]

Randy Richards
Randy has been guiding and teaching in the backcountry for over ten years in both the US and the Swiss Alps. He is recognized as one of the finest leaders in the Northwest and is a highly acclaimed, incredibly talented mountain guide. He has spent much of the last few years leading intensive wilderness courses while teaching and preparing up-and-coming alpine guides. His following of former students is simply astonishing and his expertise and easy-going nature proves him to be one of the finest and most unique teachers around.

Barbara Winkler
Growing up and developing alpine skills in Switzerland, Barbara brings incredible talent and poise to our Mountaineering School and International expeditions. Her teaching achievements are astonishing as her innate ability to train others at an extremely high level quickly identifies her as one of the leading instructors in the Northwest Barbara has climbed extensively throughout the US, Europe and Canada with particular expertise in waterfall ice climbing. She has a strong following of former students and leads a number of courses at our Mountaineering school. Needless to say her upbringing and wealth of experience gives her unparalleled credentials for guiding in the Alps.

Dawn Beckley
Director of Operations, Dawn combines financial and advertising expertise to manage the "behind the scene" operations. During the past ten years, her interests in arts, culture and village life have taken her to many parts of the world. Along with Gordon, Dawn leads cultural tours to central India.

Gordon Janow
As Program Director for Alpine Ascents, Gordon is responsible for all marketing, written materials, pre-trip planning and development of new areas. He has traveled extensively for the past twelve years, with a particular interest in Asia. In nine trips to India alone, he has spent a total of almost three years visiting and learning about the different states. Gordon has written numerous articles which have been published in both the United States and India.

Matt Lepisto
Newly indoctrinated to the world of low altitude offices, as Operations Manager, Matt assists with gear preparation, expedition logistics and a variety of behind the scenes operations. His multi-faceted skills are a welcome addition to our office staff.



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