Located in the western central highlands, Carstensz Pyramid is the highest mountain on the Oceanic continent. We arrive by charter flight and allow local Dani porters to welcome us into their villages and lead us through their exquisite and scabrous countryside. After crossing this wild terrain we encounter Carstensz in very much the same way as the first Dutch explorers. As Irian Jaya has had relatively little western influence, the 'stone age' Dani lifestyle and rituals have been able to continue in a somewhat authentic manner. One representation of traditional culture is manifested in their dress as women are clothed in grass skirts and men in holims or penis gourds. Tourism has not arrived in many of these areas and thus we are extremely sensitive and careful as to our impact on the region.

Unlike the other seven summits Carstensz is a rock climb of moderate difficulty. (5.8m for short steps but most of the climbing is scrambling). While all short technical sections will have fixed lines, climbers should possess basic rock climbing skills. This fascinating expedition suggests an amazing array of exhilarating experiences and the opportunity to interact with an ancient indigenous population. Our past expeditions proved to be fantastic all-around experiences and each climb culminated with 100% summit success!

History of Irian Jaya
Irian Jaya occupies the western half of New Guinea. This island is located immediately south of the equator, and is the world's second largest island, following Greenland. Irian Jaya's climate is primarily a function of topography. The low lying north and south sides of the island possess great tropical jungles, while the mountain ranges exhibit very temperate weather conditions. The mountains run east to west and rise to 16,023ft (4,884m) at Carstensz Pyramid.

Politically, Irian Jaya is the easternmost province of Indonesia. The area was initially claimed by the Dutch in the mid-1800's as part of their Spice Island empire, but by 1940 they had still not explored further inland than the coastal plains. The Dutch wanted to prepare Irian Jaya for self-government by 1970, but from the late 1950's the Indonesians were exerting pressure to annex the area and, with help from the UN, this was accomplished in 1963. This process was not universally accepted by native Papuans and discontent still prevails in certain areas.

In 1961, the Harvard Peabody Museum sponsored a major expedition to the Grand A Valley to document the Dani's "stone age" culture (Peter Matthiessen's Under the Mountain Wall). Wamena, the site of the valley's airstrip, has grown into a small town, but in general, the only big changes since then are that tribal fighting and cannibalism have ended.

Beyond the Grand Valley of the Baliem River, there are many other groups living in smaller valleys. These people were not contacted, by the west, until the 1960's and 1970's, when missionaries began penetrating these remote regions. In the highlands to the east of the Baliem River, the Yali, Mek, and Kim-Yal people comprise some of the other large tribal groups. They live in spectacular mountain country and exhibit their own unique cultural lifestyles and dress, wearing various selections of rattan waist hoops and penis gourds. Tourism has not arrived in most areas, and we intend to be very sensitive and careful about our impact.

Irian Jaya provides a panoply of Old World tropical species. This is due to the land bridge linking both Australia and New Guinea during the last ice age. We will encounter an exceptional diversity of flora with nearly 90% of its species endemic to the island.

About Carstensz Pyramid
At 16,023ft (4,884 m), Carstensz Pyramid, or Puncak Jaya ("Victory Peak") as the Indonesians call it, is located in the western central highlands and is the highest peak in Oceana, Australasia continent. The mountain was named after Jan Carstensz, a Dutch explorer who was the first European to sight the peak. In 1962, Heinrich Harrer became the first foreigner to reach the peak. His book, I Come From the Stone Age, provides excellent reading about climbing Carstensz and other peaks in the area as well as his experiences while living with the Dani for a year. This remote and wild peak offers the climber an amazing variety of experiences, vegetation ranging from tropical rain forest to alpine, people of a very different culture, and great climbing.

The route on Carstensz Pyramid follows a series of gullies up the north face for 500m of solid rock before breaking out on the ridge. Riddled with notches, the summit ridge undulates for half a kilometer from this point to the top. One of the gaps is 20m deep, and we will rappel this overhanging pitch and leave a rope fixed to jumar on our return. On our descent we will rappel short distances and down-climb most of the way. The rock is extremely good, rarely loose, and always provides good friction even in wet weather.

The rock climbing difficulty on Carstensz is up to 5.8 for short steps, but most of the climbing is scrambling. It is important that you have basic rock climbing skills and are comfortable with rappelling and jumaring. Short technical sections will have fixed lines allowing you to either free climb or jumar. These fixed lines have been a crucial part of our 100% success rate.

In the highland areas, daytime temperatures should range between 75 ^o and 85 ^oF, with most evenings about 45 ^oF. Expect warm afternoon showers which may turn cool if encountered on a mountain pass. Closer to Carstensz, snow or inclement weather may occur. Temperatures can range from 28 ^o to 60 ^oF with sunshine occasionally in the mornings, then rainfall in the afternoons and evenings. Winds are variable and can be strong.

Alpine Ascents's Past Expeditions
Our past expeditions had outstanding success with a total of 18 climbers (entire expeditions) reaching the summit. Todd and Pete led the 94 expedition and Pete led the 95 expedition (joined by Alpine Ascents's Wally Berg).

Safety
Your safety while participating in this expedition is one of our prime concerns, and we therefore provide you with the best equipment available. All guides are well versed in wilderness first-aid techniques. Ultimately your guide makes decisions with your comfort and safety in mind, and yet tries to maximize the experience of the adventure for each individual. For your own safety it is important that you are comfortable with standard climbing techniques and use of climbing equipment.

Porters
We employ many Dani porters to assist in transporting all gear, food and equipment to base camp. During our three day trek through the jungle, these porters become our good companions and we are able to share many aspects of our differing cultures.

Environment
Alpine Ascents is proud of its outstanding environmental record. It is our standard practice to remove all trash and traces of our expedition and leave the environment with only our footprints.

Expedition Itinerary

Days 1-3: Flight USA to Jakarta, Indonesia.

Day 3: Late night flight Jakarta to Biak, Irian Jaya.

Day 4: Arrive early morning in Biak. While in Biak, you may wish to visit the local market for an introduction to the colorful Indonesian "pasar" or hire a taxi for a tour of the island. In the afternoon we will fly from Biak to Nabire. Overnight: Nabire

Day 5: Fly a Cessna aircraft from Nabire to Ilaga.

Day 6: Helicopter transport from Ilaga to just below Nasidomeh. We will transport climbers, gear and all supplies throughout the day on a series of helicopter flights between Ilaga and our landing spot. After all gear has been transported, we will hike two hours to our destination of Nasidomeh. Local Dani porters will join us at this point to assist with moving gear up the mountain.

Day 7: Hike from Nasidomeh to Larson Lake. Depending upon conditions we may hike from our helicopter landing site to Larson Lake in one day. This will allow a more gradual acclimatization.

Days 8-10: Hike from Larson Lake to Base Camp. Acclimatize at Base Camp.

Days 11-13: Weather permitting, we will depart at 4:00am for the summit, climbing with head lamps for the first pitch or two. The climb will take all day to reach the summit and descend.

Day 14: Hike over New Zealand Pass from Base Camp to the helicopter landing site.

Day 15: Helicopter from the landing site to Ilaga.

Day 16: Fly Cessna from Ilaga to Nabire.

Day 17: Rest day in Nabire.

Day 18: Return flight Nabire-Biak-Bali, where we will spend the evening on one of the world's most exquisite beaches.

Day 19: Return to Los Angeles, USA and then home.

About Climbing the Seven Summits
Throughout the years Alpine Ascents has assisted climbers in reaching the highest point on each continent. As of July 1997, 6 of the 18 Americans to complete the seven summits have done a substantial portion of their climbs with Alpine Ascents International. Click here for the reflections of a seven summiter.

For those with Seven Summit aspirations, there is a logical progression which enables climbers to build on previously developed skills. This suggested program is economically prudent and considers technical skill level, acclimatization and summit success rates.

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Payment: $2,500 deposit, due with application.
$7,000 balance, due 90 days prior to expedition start date.

Land Costs Include: