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Bio:
Mike Bearzi
Climber Boulder, CO Age: 47
A veteran Himalayan climber, Bearzi, 47, of Boulder, Colorado, brings tremendous
experience and a confident, low-key demeanor to the team's climbing
leadership. In early 1990s, as one of the most prominent pioneers of modern
mixed climbing, Bearzi invented the "M system," a widely accepted method of
ranking mixed climbs. In 1986, he did the first free ascent of Cerro Torre,
on its West Face. He also has been to Everest three times, in 1992, 1993 and
1995, including two alpine-style attempts on the North Face and its Great
Couloir Route without oxygen or any support. In 1993, he went to Everest with
Paul Teare. In 1995 it was with Robert Anderson. Each time they were stopped
by bad weather, since the climbs were monsoon attempts in summer.
He also has
put up new routes in Alaska, and climbed Alaska's Devil's Thumb and Mt.
Burkett in 1981. He started climbing along Colorado's Front Range in 1976. He
and his wife, Renee, have no children, and he has worked as a master
craftsman and carpenter for many years. On three occasions, he has written
book reviews for the American Alpine Club. Though it is not a new route, K2's
North Ridge held an attraction for Bearzi because of its remoteness and
"magnificent line" that "epitomizes" the essence of Himalayan adventures.
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