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Thursday, September 4, 1997 (Everest North Face base camp, Tibet)
Also the yak drivers needed three days to arrive at base camp. Now they will leave tomorrow morning and arrive within two days at advance base camp accompanied by three of our Sherpas. For a better acclimatization, it is recommended that Westerners take three days to go from 17,000' to 21,500' for the fist time. Jim Bridwell will leave tomorrow as well, while I will wait for Craig’s return and follow up the next day. The mood at base camp is really great. We have extremely good contact with the Colombian team. The team spent the last month fixing the North Col route and will us allow to use all of their fixed lines for free, which is really generous. I also asked Jim to write some of his impressions down: Greetings from 17,000' above sea level from Martina, Jim and all the Sherpas: Dawa Sherpa, Kusang Dorchi Sherpa, and Tchering Sherpa. Things are very different here on the north side since my last visit in 1982. That was a tragic year, with the loss of the promising American female climber Marty Hoey and world-renowned British team members Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker. The Rongbuk monastery was a pile of rubble from the cultural revolution and the border was still closed between Nepal and China/Tibet. Now it’s very different indeed. Eighty team members from nine different countries, along with nearly one third that number of Nepalese Sherpas have gathered in what can only be described as the Rongbuk village. All but one solo Japanese climber will be crowded onto the same route the North Ridge. Many have different aspirations once they reach the summit, but one goal is constant and that is the summit. This situation brings many questions to ponder. Will this international community with various languages co-exist and work together toward their mutual goal? Will it make the mountain a safer place or will the historically tragic one in ten statistic prevail? Only time will tell. A variety of ailments from mountain sickness to habitual coughing have already taken few players out of the game. There is a general sense of camaraderie and we all hope that nothing more serious will come to our growing number of global friends. Jordiee and Carlos are two Catalonians climbers that we have become close friends with since meeting them in Kathmandu. Like Craig, Carlos’ goal is to climb to the top of the world and ski down the route. Jordiee on the other hand wants to snowboard down as does Swiss, Himalaya, and Everest veteran Jean Troillet. But in spite of their mutual goal they are friends and who knows maybe partners on this incredible quest. Martina Stimmerling and Jim Bridwell
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