Mustagh Ata: First Ascent on the East Ridge








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Shuttling the Gear
Mustagh Ata Base Camp - Saturday, July 1, 2000

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On June 28-29, we started the approach to the new route. As Dan was still up at Camp 3 (6800 meters) waiting for a sunny day to summit, Walter K., Anne and Jon spent two days preparing the gear and food that the team would need on the East Ridge. Eight duffle bags later, the bounty was ready. Among the normal paraphanalia and 100+ pounds of food required for 20 days of climbing, we also packed up more than 200 meters of rope for fixing line which would be used as payment for donkeys.

On a perfect summit day (no clouds, little wind) on June 27th, Dan, Walter F. and Thijs reached the top of Mustagh Ata. Dan shot aerial views of the new route on the digital camera which we would analyze later to choose our line and Base Camp.

After our last meal of Base Camp pancakes (which we ate almost every morning) on June 28, Walter K., Anne and Jon headed down from Mustagh Ata to the road to meet up with our jeep and the Chinese member of our team whom we hired to help shuttle gear up the extensive Kuksay glacier to the new route base camp.

— Mustagh Ata Team, MountainZone.com Correspondents

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