Description of Route:
After summitting Mustagh Ata via the normal route (see the itinerary), the
team members will descend via specially organized
camel transport, to Subashi, then join prearranged
jeep transport to the village of Kongtoyagz, a short drive
from the Karakoram Highway.
The trek to the base of the new route starts at
Kongtoyagz, and then will proceed by jeep and camel to the village of Ayaktaxningojadi, which is reached
via unimproved roads winding through the barren
foothills of Mustagh Ata.
After the village is passed,
the trek proceeds by camel to a highpoint along the
Torbulung River, where the Kuksay Glacier joins it. Local porters,
who have accompanied the team to that point, will pick up
the loads from there and carry them on their backs
into the Base Camp. Three to four porter loads equal the one camel load.
After eight to 12 kilometers of travel over loose rocks
balanced on top of slippery ice, Base Camp is reached
at an elevation of 4724 meters, on a flat, rock-strewn
glacier.
This is a spectacular Base Camp, in a cirque,
surrounded by the towering walls of Mustagh Ata,
Kuksay, Tokoruk, and Kala peaks.
The climb to Camp I at 5245 meters entails rock
climbing on a broad and scrambled arête tilted at
40-70 degrees, with occasional vertical pitches. The
difficult rock climbing appears to stop below Camp I.
From Camp I, the team will
explore the approaches to Camp II, anticipated
to be located at 5700 meters on a gentle snow
plateau.
The team intends to place Camp III at 6400 meters in a
depression on a broad snow ridge. The climbing between
Camp II and III looks to be easy snow plodding. Between
Camp III and Camp IV (at 7100 meters), there appears to be another rock band, of perhaps 50-degree mixed snow and rock.
The final push to the 7546-meter summit appears to be steep
snow and it could be
unconsolidated and avalanche prone.
After reaching the summit, the team will descend via the
normal route.
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