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Route Information and Maps

Description of Route:
After summitting Mustagh Ata via the normal route (see the itinerary), the team members will descend via specially organized camel transport, to Subashi, then join prearranged jeep transport to the village of Kongtoyagz, a short drive from the Karakoram Highway.

The trek to the base of the new route starts at Kongtoyagz, and then will proceed by jeep and camel to the village of Ayaktaxningojadi, which is reached via unimproved roads winding through the barren foothills of Mustagh Ata.

After the village is passed, the trek proceeds by camel to a highpoint along the Torbulung River, where the Kuksay Glacier joins it. Local porters, who have accompanied the team to that point, will pick up the loads from there and carry them on their backs into the Base Camp. Three to four porter loads equal the one camel load.

After eight to 12 kilometers of travel over loose rocks balanced on top of slippery ice, Base Camp is reached at an elevation of 4724 meters, on a flat, rock-strewn glacier.

This is a spectacular Base Camp, in a cirque, surrounded by the towering walls of Mustagh Ata, Kuksay, Tokoruk, and Kala peaks.

The climb to Camp I at 5245 meters entails rock climbing on a broad and scrambled arête tilted at 40-70 degrees, with occasional vertical pitches. The difficult rock climbing appears to stop below Camp I.

From Camp I, the team will explore the approaches to Camp II, anticipated to be located at 5700 meters on a gentle snow plateau.

The team intends to place Camp III at 6400 meters in a depression on a broad snow ridge. The climbing between Camp II and III looks to be easy snow plodding. Between Camp III and Camp IV (at 7100 meters), there appears to be another rock band, of perhaps 50-degree mixed snow and rock.

The final push to the 7546-meter summit appears to be steep snow and it could be unconsolidated and avalanche prone.

After reaching the summit, the team will descend via the normal route.

Map of China
Pakistan and China
(42K)
Map showing new routeTopo map showing
the new route

(76K)
Map showing both routesTopo map showing
both routes

(118K)
Map of the climbing routeEast Ridge route on Mustagh
(42K photo)
Panorama of climbing routeSpecial feature for users of version 4.0 browsers: see a scrolling panorama of the complete East Ridge Route (photo is 111k).


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