Nordic Skiing and the Zen of Kick-and-Glide
Following Icicle Creek's Skinny-Stick Routes to the Heart of the Cascades
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On this frigid morning, the skiing was delicious and we had Icicle Canyon all to ourselves. Near the end of the route we finally skied into the brightly lit sunny side of the valley, which had beckoned from the shadows for almost an hour. We reached the end of the trail bathed in the pale, flattering light of midwinter. After a major calorie burn-off, we were already looking forward to what lay ahead.
Our destination was our starting point: Sleeping Lady Resort on the southern edge of Leavenworth. At once civilized and eco-sensitive, the incredible creature comforts of Sleeping Lady can arouse something akin to guilt in those of us accustomed to rougher accommodation. It's not so much the rustically furnished yet luxurious cabins, the artwork by artists such as Dale Chihuly, the food or even the warm-pool blasted from solid rock, but rather it's a combination of all of that. The meals prepared by executive chef Damian Browne loom large in the minds of hungry skiers, and James and I stashed our skis outside the dining hall and eagerly entered the stonework and timbered lodge to see what was on the buffet menu. We were always pleasantly surprised at the spread that awaited us, and even after two days of non-stop skiing we figured we hadn't managed to burn off Damian's huge and delicious meals.
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An unparalleled location is another factor that makes Sleeping Lady the right setting for a serious outdoor adventure, whatever the sport or the time of year. In summer, the Icicle is the gateway to some of the best hiking and climbing in the Cascades. In winter, ice climbing, alpine skiing, snowboarding, and Nordic trails are minutes away. In the case of cross country, some trails go directly to the lodge, so there is no need to even get back in the car.
The city of Leavenworth maintains a 23-kilometer network of trails, groomed for both conventional cross country and the newer and increasingly popular technique of skating. The Lake Wenatchee ranger district maintains another nine miles of groomed and ungroomed trails, while Stevens Pass Nordic Center maintains another 15 km. of easy to moderate trails, as well as the same amount of extremely demanding terrain for expert Nordic skiers. That combination of resources makes Leavenworth one of the best cross-country ski locations in the Northwest, along with that of the Mazama area, another two hours farther north. As more and more summer outdoor types look to winter adventure, cross country skiing has grown tremendously in recent years. With a relatively low buy-in to the sport in the way of gear -- at least compared to downhill skiing or randonnee skiing -- and a fast learning curve, Nordic skiing is an irresistible way to enjoy winter in the mountains. The usual dangers apply, however, so be careful: don't get lost, don't die in a slide, but do go. Winter awaits, for a few months yet at least.
-- Peter Potterfield, Mountain Zone Staff |
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