Mythic Carstensz Pyramid Reopens
Good News for Those with "Seven Summit" Aspirations
Tuesday, March 9, 1999

Carstensz
Carstensz Pyramid
Suddenly, from the South Pacific, there's good news for those with "Seven Summit" aspirations.

Australasia's highest peak, Indonesia's Carstensz Pyramid (or Puncak Jaya to the locals) has been reopened after years of closure resulting from political instability. The 16,023-foot peak is located in Irian Jaya, Indonesia, which is the Western half of Papa New Guinea. While the unusual landscape is populated by age-old Dani tribesman, modern-day conflicts have kept this portion of the island closed for more than two years.

The Pyramid is often considered the crowning jewel of the Seven Summits. It's cloud enshrouded slopes and remote location seem appropriate for the primitive cultures that live in its proximity.

Carstensz Pyramid (named for Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz) was first climbed by Heinrich Harrer in 1962. Harrer’s famous book, I Come from the Stone Age, recounts not only his climb, but the year he spent living among the Dani people. The Dani tribe is one of the oldest remaining tribes in Indonesia. Its customs and traditions remain relatively untouched by time, as the women wear rattan waist hoops and the men adorn themselves with penis gourds.

The climb itself requires some technical rock climbing skills (to 5.8 for short steps) but much of the ascent is scrambling. As most climbs are organized by guide services fixed lines are often in place on the most difficult portions of the climb.

The demand for expeditions to Carstensz Pyramid and Irian Jaya has been tremendous, says Dawn Beckley, operations director for Alpine Ascents International. "During the last two years, our waiting list for this trip has grown substantially. People are looking for something different, something new and something that can transport them to a totally unique environment. In '94 and '95, we led treks and climbing expeditions with great success. Now, with the re-opening, we hope to begin operations in Irian Jaya in the fall of '99."

Climbers often return calling an ascent of the mountain a mystical journey through time. The trek in penetrates wild jungle terrain up toward the "cloud forests."

"I felt like Indiana Jones. It was simply a larger than life experience," Jon Lee a member of Alpine Ascents' '94 team stated.

Just as expeditions to parts of the Karakoram virtually ceased in the wake of political unrest last summer, many peaks around the world are subject to the whims of politicians. That uncertainty means that those wishing to climb the Pyramid should move quickly. As for "seven summits" statistics, 41 climbers have climbed all seven summits (highest mountain on each continent) including Carstensz Pyramid. An additional 12 climbers have climbed Australia's Koscuisko as their seven summit.

Gordon Janow, Mountain Zone Correspondent

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