Hike of the Week: Seven-Mile Hole, Wyoming

This difficult trail takes hikers to the bottom of Yellowstone's Grand Canyon, 7 miles downstream of the canyon's Lower Falls and a thousand feet beneath its gorgeous yellow cliffs. Be forewarned that climbing out of the canyon is very demanding, especially on a warm summer day. For those not up to this challenge, the trail's first 1.2 miles offer a shady, mostly level walk along the canyon's north rim, affording good views and an escape from crowded observation points.

The trail begins at a glacier boulder, a 500-ton erratic dropped from a glacier moving through this area 15,000 years ago. (The gneiss is estimated to be more than 600 million years old.) To find the boulder, drive southeast from Canyon Village on the North Rim Drive (one-way) about 0.75 mile, and then turn left on a two-way road heading east. Drive 0.5 mile and watch for the boulder on the left (north) side of the road. Park along the road next to the boulder.

The trail leads east through a lodgepole pine forest. The ground cover is thick with grouse whortleberry, a small, reddish purple berry with tiny elliptical leaves. The tasty berries provide hikers, birds, and bears with a delicious late summer snack.

The trail parallels the rim of the canyon. Short spur trails to the rim provide excellent views. While at the canyon's edge, scan the rock pinnacles for osprey nests, identifiable as large clumps of mud, sticks, and debris atop the columns. Osprey build nests as large as 5 feet in diameter. Sharp eyes might also spy the handsome brown-and-white hawks. The wings of an osprey are dark brown and its head white, with a distinctive black band across its eyes. Osprey can dive over 100 feet, plunging feet-first into the water, emerging with a fish securely clasped in its talons. The osprey always turns the fish to face forward, taking advantage of aerodynamics as it flies to its nest or perch to eat.

After only 1.2 miles, look for a well-trod spur trail to your right. Follow that trail to an overlook of Silver Cord Cascade. The cascade's thin ribbon of water drops 1,300 feet from the opposite side of the canyon, making it the highest cascade in Yellowstone. Those seeking only an easy walk should return to the main trail and go back to the trailhead at this point.

Those heading to Seven-Mile Hole continue northeast. The trail soon veers north, leaving the canyon rim. Arrive at a trail junction with the Howard Eaton Trail and stay right (north). Head through lodgepole forest for approximately 1.3 miles. The trail begins to descend steeply. After crossing a bridge over a stream, arrive at a fork in the trail. To the left is the Mount Washburn Trail. Take the right fork (heading northeast) to Seven-Mile Hole.

The trail initially courses lazily through thick and peaceful forest and then suddenly arrives at the canyon rim. Dark pine boughs frame the immense orange-and-white canyon walls. Below, the green Yellowstone River runs white with frothy rapids. Steam rises from areas of thermal activity. The trail descends with seriousness.

Follow the steep switchbacks with care. Loose, gravelly soil provides poor footing. Pass steaming fumaroles, small meadows, and stands of low-lying juniper trees. Juniper trees are easily recognized by their hard, green berrylike cones that are used as flavoring for gin. Crush on in your hand to detect its familiar scent. Native Americans ate juniper berries and, in times of scarcity, also consumed the tree's inner bark.

Pass signs for campsites and look for orange metal blazes marking the trail. The air becomes noticeably cooler and moister as you approach the river. Finally at the river's edge, at the bottom of the canyon, enjoy a well-deserved rest. Pull out a fishing pole, binoculars, or picnic and contemplate the peacefulness and wonder of this extraordinary space. To return, retrace your steps, allowing plenty of time for the tough trek up.

Lisa Gollin Evans received her B.A. from Cornell University, then obtained a J.D. from Boalt Hall School of Law. Between books, Evans works in the field of environmental law, most recently for the Massachusetts Department of Coastal Zone Management.

Evans believes that respect for, and stewardship of, the environment grows from a child's positive experiences in natural areas. The best way to create tomorrow's environmentalists is to expose children to the wonders, beauty, and excitement of nature. Her series of guides helps families put her ideas into practice and make the most of their wilderness vacations. Her books include Rocky Mountain National Park: A Family Guide, Lake Tahoe: A Family Guide, and An Outdoor Family Guide to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Evans has also written an award-winning nonfiction children's book, An Elephant Never Forgets Its Snorkel (Crown) that was named an "Outstanding Science Book for Children" in 1992 by the National Association of Science Teachers and the Children's Book Council. Evans has also written, An Outdoor Family Guide to Acadia National Park, for The Mountaineers Books. She lives with her husband and three daughters in Marblehead, Massachusetts.