Our journey to Island Peak and Mera Peak cohesively integrates the unsurpassed beauty of the Himalayas with deep exposure to the rich culture and customs of the indigenous Sherpa people. This is an excellent opportunity to participate in and fully experience a Himalayan mountain climbing expedition.

The trek and climb to Island Peak takes us through the renowned Khumbu region where we partake in the Nepalese and Tibetan cultures as they have existed for centuries. The journey offers some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. The climb to Mera gives us a chance to venture into relatively untouristed and unspoiled terrain. The upper Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place of massive moraines, forested hillsides, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks. Click here for a brief overview of Sherpa life.

This expedition spans only 31 days, while most Himalayan expeditions require several months. This makes it an excellent introduction to some great climbing in the Himalayan region. Climbers with even more strict time constraints may depart after climbing Island Peak, 20 days.

With the assistance of Alpine Ascents's world-class guides, a fit and enthusiastic novice can successfully reach the spectacular summits of Island and Mera peaks. The climbs are considered physically challenging, but not technically difficult. Our climbing guides are experts in the Himalayan region and will be assisted by a group of renowned climbing Sherpa to ensure a safe and exciting adventure.

Expedition Itinerary
Days 1-2: Flight: USA - Bangkok - Kathmandu

Day 3: After preparing gear, we begin our exploration of Nepal. The spectacular sights of the Kathmandu valley include the 3,000 year old monkey temple Swayambhu and Pashupatinath, one of Hinduism's holiest sanctuaries.

Day 4: After our stay in Kathmandu, we fly via twin-otter STOL aircraft to the dirt airstrip at Lukla, a Sherpa village known as the gateway to Everest. On a clear morning the flight along the Eastern Himalayas is marvelous. In Lukla we will meet our Sherpa staff and begin trekking towards our first climbing objective, the South Ridge of Island Peak.

Climbers will have the opportunity to see and explore the fascinating Sherpa culture in addition to participating in one of the best alpine climbs in the Everest region. We begin our approach by traveling through beautiful forests of Himalayan pine and Deodar cedar to the village of Phakding along the Dudh Kosi river (9,000ft).

Days 5-6: We rise early and trek to the village of Namche Bazaar. Namche is the commercial center and historic trading outpost of the Khumbu. As they have done for centuries, colorful Tibetan Nomads from the north come to trade with the Nepalese Sherpa, Tamang and Rai people of the south. We will spend two nights here providing time to fully explore the market.

Day 7: Above Namche we will visit the monasteries of Thame, Tengboche and Pangboche. Here, while enjoying the serenity of these high sanctuaries, we have the opportunity to see Buddhist monks go about their daily rituals and prayer ceremonies. We set camp in the village of Devuche.

Days 8-9: Above the monasteries our route takes us along the Dudh Kosi, the river which drains the entire Everest region. When we reach the Imja Valley, we turn east towards Island Peak and head toward Base Camp. Throughout the approach the sweeping ridges of Ama Dablam lie to the south, while the dramatic East Face of Tawoche towers behind us.

Days 10-12: Island Peak Base Camp (16,690ft) will be the starting point for our ascent the next day. The climb begins with a two hour scramble to the Imja Tse glacier. After donning crampons we cross the glacier and ascend to the picturesque south-west ridge. As we follow this narrow ridge, Makalu begins to rise in front of us over the holy peak of Cho Polu and the stunning South Face of Lhotse stands 8,000ft above us to the left. From the 20,305ft summit of Island Peak the views of the Imja Valley and the surrounding mountains are breathtaking. After relaxing and enjoying this vista, we descend to Base Camp and prepare for our return to Lukla.

Days 13-16: We spend the next four days traveling through the heartland of the Sherpas. Along the way we'll have time to enjoy the hospitality of our new friends and take part in their rich cultural festivities. After spending a night near Lukla, we begin our climb to the North ridge of Mera peak. At this juncture, climbers may either return to Kathmandu via twin-otter aircraft or continue with us to the vast wilderness of Mera Peak.

Day 17: Beyond Lukla we head south-east through forests, traversing many cascading streams. As we hike, the rock peaks of the Kalo Himbal rise before us. This ridge of peaks divide the Khumbu Valley from the Hinku. The night is spent in a small meadow called Chautenga, which lies below an impressive glacial cirque.

Day 18: From Chautenga we travel through Himalayan pine and rhododendron forests toward the tree line and the Chetra La, a spectacular pass leading into the Hinku Valley. The Hinku is known for its remote, wilderness quality. Its first growth forests and beautiful, cascading creeks do not see the same number of visitors as the popular Khumbu Valley to the west. We spend this night in the village of Tulu Kharka.

Days 19-22: En route to Mera Peak Base Camp, we pass through the settlement of Thangnak, a seasonal camp for shepherds and farmers harvesting potatoes. Just below Thangnak, there is a centuries old primitive Gompa, a sacred meditation spot for Buddhist monks. After visiting the temple, we continue above Thangnak through alpine valleys to our 16,729ft Base Camp located in the high meadows of Khare. This part of the trek takes on a fairly leisurely pace. We spend our nights in the villages of Tashing Ongma, Tangnak and then on to Kare, Base Camp. To allow for proper acclimatization we spend an extra day at Khare, sorting equipment and preparing food for our ascent.

Day 23: The following morning, we ascend above the meadows and moraine of Khare, start onto the Mera glacier and begin climbing up the easy angled slopes towards High Camp at Mera La pass (17,765ft). We will have support from our Sherpa team and porters to establish High Camp. This alleviates the necessity of carrying heavy loads and will allow us to enjoy our evening before an early start the next day. The sunset from Mera La is dramatic and colorful with the slender, sharp ridges of Ama Dablam and Kangtega beckoning to the west.

Day 24: Our summit day on Mera is long, but the Mera Glacier and east ridge offer gradual and interesting climbing along its glaciated flanks. Once high on the ridge, the Himalayan giants of Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, and Cho Oyu dominate the panorama to the north. From Mera's summit, the views are astounding with an almost endless 3600 vista. After a short rest, we begin our descent to High Camp.

Days 25-28: The next 3-4 days are spent trekking along the Hinku river and re-ascending the Chetra-La pass which takes us back to Lukla. Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.

Days 29-30: Flight to Bangkok and on to the USA

Expedition Information
Trip Dates:
November 6-November 25, 1998 Island Peak only, USA-USA
November 6-December 5, 1998 Island and Mera Peaks, USA-USA

Included in Land Costs: