Expedition Info

Dates
Huascaran-Sur
July 9 - 26
Inca Trail Extension
Cordillera Blanca, Peru
July 5 - 8

Elevation
Huascaran: 22,205' (6768m)
Pico Oeste: 18,871' (5752m)

Guides
Frank Coffey
Mark Gunlogson

Climbing Level
Advanced beginner
to intermediate.

Cost
Huascaran: $2,880
Inca Trail Extension: $620
(+ domestic airfare)



From the Bookstore


Mountaineering — Freedom of the Hills

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Classic climbing course text; solid info on all aspects of mountain, rock and ice climbing. Available in paperback.


Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

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Characteristics of glaciers, crevasse rescue, route finding, gear, etc; includes special skiing info.

Mountain Sickness
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Compact guide for the prevention, recognition and treatment of acute mountain sickness, high altitude pulmonary edema and cerebral edema

"Exploring Cusco"
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Comprehensive guide to Cusco and surrounding areas with much practical tourist information.

"Lost City of the Incas"
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The Story of Macchu Picchu and Its Builders - An overall account of the archaeological labors of expeditions to Macchu Picchu.

"Gracias! A Latin American Journal"
by Henri J.M. Nouwen
An account of a six-month stay in Bolivia and Peru by a Dutch theologian who lived among the people.

The Andean Past (Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador)
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Huascaran-Sur & Pico Oeste, Peru
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A climber's natural intoxicant, the Andes of Peru are the highest, most glaciated tropical mountains in the world. The famed Cordillera Blanca (white range), contains stunning climbs which have long been cherished by the mountaineering community. The region's gorgeous peaks include the icy-pyramid of Alpamayo and Mt. Santa Cruz. Our main objective of this challenging journey will be the mammoth Huascaran-Sur.

As Peru's tallest peak, Huascaran is a striking high altitude ascent. Prior to embarking on Huascaran we will acclimatize by attempting Pico Oeste (18,871 ft). We attempt Huascaran by way of the south summit. This route travels along the Rajupampa glacier via the "Garganta Route" as we set high camp at 19,500ft. This dramatic location sits between the Col that separates Huascaran-Norte and Huascaran-Sur. Our final ascent is via the northwest slopes which allows exquisite views, confirming these great peaks as a true climber's mecca.

Inca Trail Extension
Those interested may arrive before the climb and begin this exotic journey with a flight from Lima to the famed city of Cuzco (3,326m), the archaeological capital of the Americas. For those making the effort to journey to South America and who have ample time, a visit to the oldest continually inhabited city in South America should not be missed

The city of Cuzco dates back to pre-Inca civilization and served not only as the Inca capital but as a major pilgrimage sight for the Quechua Indians. After visiting the famed ruins, churches, museums and markets in Cuzco we travel by narrow gauge train into the spiritual center of Inca civilization, the renowned ruins of Machu Picchu, "The Lost City of the Incas." Machu Picchu, discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911, is perhaps the most important archeological site in the Americas.

Overwhelmed by a sense of timeless craftsmanship and mysterious isolation, we wind our way past ancient walls of mortarless stone that is cut so precisely, the blade of a sharp knife cannot be inserted between the cracks. We proceed to the shrine of Intihuatana, "Tethering Place of the Sun," a sundial carved from a large tapering boulder at the heart of the ruins. It is believed that every Winter Solstice when the sun became fleeting, a ritual was was performed, tethering the sun to the giant stone. As a result, the sun lingered, providing longer days and ensuring another year of harvests and prosperity.

Peru Itinerary

Inca Trail Extension Prior to Expedition (July 5 - 8)

July 5: Depart USA

July 6: Arrive Lima and continue on to Cuzco, Peru. We will spend the day in Cuzco shopping, sightseeing and acclimatizing. If time permits we may visit the enormous fortress ruin of Sacsahuaman.

July 7: We take a relaxing narrow gauge train up the Urubamba River Valley along the Inca Trail to the archaeological site of Machu Picchu. During the day we will explore the ruins in their entirety and return to Cuzco in the evening.

July 8: Continue tour of Cuzco, depart and return to Lima. Rest.

July 9: Rest day in Lima. Sightseeing and relaxation before arrival of other Huascaran expedition members.

Expedition Itinerary

July 9: Depart USA

July 10: Arrive early morning in Lima. After a comfortable 6-8 hour bus ride, we arrive in the town of Huaraz, the bustling economic center of the Cordillera Blanca.

July 11: After a leisurely breakfast, we will visit the colorful local market in Huaraz. The rest of the day we make last minute preparations, sightsee and explore.

July 12-17: Located in the Quebrada Llanganuco above the turquoise water of two beautiful lakes, a climb of Pico Oeste (18,871ft.) will help us acclimatize, as well as provide us with an opportunity to polish our skills for Huascaran (22,205ft.). Our ascent will follow the scenic southwest ridge of the peak and afford us fantastic views of the blanca, as well as a tantalizing glimpse of Huascaran Sur. After our ascent, we will spend another night in the relaxing Hotel El Patio.

July 18: We drive to the village of Musho, where we meet our porters and begin our climb up to Campo Morreno.

July 19: We will make the easy ascent to Camp I at 17,200 feet.

July 20-23: Move to Camp II (19,500) nestled between Huascaran-Norte and Huascaran-Sur, from which we will attempt to summit. The views from Peru's highest point are truly not to be believed. Extra days for summit attempts.

July 24: Return to Basecamp.

July 25: Hike back to Musho and return to Huaraz.

July 26: Return to Lima and catch night flight to Miami.

Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Land Costs Include:

  • All in-country transportation
  • All Hotels for scheduled expedition days
  • All group climbing gear
  • All meals while climbing
  • Park fees and permits

    Land Costs Do Not Include:

  • International round-trip airfare USA-Peru (Lima)
  • Meals in Lima
  • Personal gear (see gear list)
  • Excess baggage charges and airport taxes
  • Personal items
  • Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond Alpine Ascents' control

    [See the Gear List]


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