Mt. Everest with Alpine Ascents International
Our reputation for leading successful climbs on Mt. Everest is unsurpassed. Of the approximately 400 people to stand atop Everest, 30 of them have been with Alpine Ascents. During our '92 expedition twelve people summitted, and in '93 eight people stood with us on top of the world. Our 1994 expedition was marked by ten successful summiters, with Peter Athans attaining the summit for his fourth time, a record for Western climbers. 1996 was a season marred by storms as our team participated in numerous rescues and assisted many climbers from other expeditions who were is serious danger. Lead guides Todd Burleson and Peter Athans climbed to a height of 28,000 ft to rescue climbers. Our team made a valiant second attempt at the summit, but harsh winds prevented a safe summit bid.

Our 1997 team was led by Wally Berg and Todd Burleson. A primary focus of the team was to continue performing on-going GPS research for Dr. Washburn and the Boston Museum of Science. Additionally, Todd and Wally used state of the art technology, to update viewers with video and audio images on our award winning web site. Wally and (the Sherpa team) completed his third summit on the mountain while Todd and others were turned back twice by high winds on the final ascent. Overall the trip was a great success and those interested in future should contact Alpine Ascents and former expedition members.

Alpine Ascents International has an outstanding reputation in guiding Mt. Everest. Our experience in arranging the highest quality climbs of Mt. Everest is unrivaled in the climbing industry, and we encourage you to talk with our staff and former Mt. Everest climbing team members.

Our approach to base camp begins with a flight to Kathmandu, Nepal. We will spend a few days in Kathmandu checking gear, meeting the Sherpa and preparing for our flight to Lukla or Namche (9,000ft), which lies at the base of the Khumbu Himal. From here we begin our trek to Everest base camp. The trek will take approximately 10 days and travels from the Dudh Kosi valley up through the Imja Drangka and finally onto the Khumbu glacier. Along the way we will visit the cities of Namche, Tengpoche, Pheriche and Lobuche, all of which are fascinating and richly cultured villages, which provide spectacular views of the Himalayas. For acclimatization purposes, this trek is longer than usual. This also gives us the chance to explore the many different regions and take the time to visit local monasteries and visit with Nepali friends. Click here for a brief overview of Sherpa life.

Base Camp: Years of experience have helped us to establish the finest Base Camp on the mountain. With the highest quality tent structures and imported foods, we strive to insure the time at Base Camp is restful and revitalizing. By providing these accommodations, we make every effort to keep climbers healthy and rested.

Climbing Route: By the time we reach base camp, our climbing leaders and Sherpa will be well on the way to having the lower part of the mountain (the Khumbu Ice Fall) already fixed with ropes and ladders. We will establish four camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the ice fall. This camp functions as an intermediate camp until Camp II (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft in the Western Cwm. Camp II will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 26,300ft respectively). Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face will consist of three and four man tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp which climbers will use to reach Camp IV (high camp) on the South Col. Most of our Sherpa are able to carry directly from Camp II to Camp IV, so large amounts of gear are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to help aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From Camp IV, we travel along the South East Ridge to the South Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the Hillary step and then onto the main summit.

Summit Attempts: After Camps III and IV are established and all our supplies are in place, we return to Base Camp for a rest. At Base Camp we will organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Once we are ready, we return to Advanced Base. If good weather prevails we move the first summit team to Camp III. On day 2, the first summit team moves up to Camp IV while the second summit team moves to Camp III. Day 3 will be summit day for the first team. They will start very early that morning and attempt to reach the summit before mid-day. After the summit, they retreat back to the South Col and on to Camp III. While the first summit team is attempting the summit, the second team moves up to Camp IV for their attempt the next day.

As always, weather plays a major part in all actual summit attempts. We will try as many summit attempts as safely possible as our goal is to put the maximum number of people on the summit. Guides and Sherpa will accompany all summit attempts and oxygen will be used.

Experience required for expedition members: We are looking for experienced climbers, for whom Everest is the next logical step in their climbing careers. Our team will be in top physical condition and ready to meet the extreme challenges Everest presents. If at all possible, we request that potential Everest climbers participate in one of our other domestic or international climbs so they can be evaluated by one of our guides. If this is not possible, we would like you to join us for a few days and climb in the US Cascades. It is important that a team member be able to work well with people and be willing to commit to a group effort which will last for several weeks. You will be exposed to a completely different culture during the expedition and an expedition team member it is your responsibility to treat the people and their environment with respect. This ability is as important as your climbing skills.

Legend of the Golden Chair
The evil deities were gathered together plotting to take over the world. Buddha heard of their plan and challenged the foremost deity to a race to the summit Everest (Sagarmatha). The evil deity sped quickly off while the Buddha remained seated in his chair. After a time, deep in meditation, the Buddha floated to the top of the mountain, winning the race and defeating the evil deity for all time. Click for Image

Everest Data
Claimed as highest peak: 1808 (Survey of India and British Surveyor's) Named: 1865 by Andrew Waugh for Sir George Everest First detailed map: 1921 First summit: 1953 Hillary & Norgay	First woman climber: 1975 Junko Tabei (Japanese) First climb w/o supplemental Oxygen: 1978 Reinhold Messner Updated mapping calculations: 1992 Brad Washburn

Emergency
In case of emergency and at anytime during the expedition, Alpine Ascents and its staff will use all resources available to rescue and evacuate injured climbers. From base camp, helicopter rescue is possible. Above base camp, an emergency situation can only be handled with the resources of the expedition and other expeditions in the area. Any additional cost involved in an emergency will be the responsibility of the climbing member(s) requiring immediate medical attention and/or evacuation.

Base Camp Support Trek
We also offer a support trek to Everest Base Camp for team member's family and friends. This allows family and friends the opportunity to participate in a world-class climb.

About Climbing the Seven Summits
Throughout the years Alpine Ascents has assisted climbers in reaching the highest point on each continent. As of July 1997, 6 of the 18 Americans to complete the seven summits have done a substantial portion of their climbs with Alpine Ascents International. Click here for the reflections of a seven summiter.

For those with Seven Summit aspirations, there is a logical progression which enables climbers to build on previously developed skills. This suggested program is economically prudent and considers technical skill level, acclimatization and summit success rates.

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Expedition Costs Include: