A reasonable trek for any very fit enthusiast, a journey to these sacred regions will offer a lifetime of impressions and reflections. Most days are nothing short of breathtaking while we walk amidst the Himalayan giants to the jingle of yak bells. Each corner reveals new vistas that transport our psyche further into the shadow of these daunting peaks.

Traveling to these regions with Alpine Ascents offers an uncompromising experience. We dare say that no other organization can provide the combination of expertise, intimate relationships with local Nepalis and knowledge of its mountains and environment. Our walking days will include much discourse on the peaks of the Everest region, architecture of Buddhist shines, ( Gompas and Stupas) Sherpa Buddhism and a wealth of first hand climbing history from the Everest climbers that lead each trek.

Like all our expeditions, we believe that the trekker should be lost in the world of mountains and travel unfettered by the rigors of food preparation, lodging and logistics. Alpine Ascents certainly offers the most comprehensive program available utilizing a distinguished staff of Sherpa, huge tents and the most diverse assortment of quality meals available. ( Much of the food is flown in from the US. Although the local food will be a part of our diet, we find a large variety of food helps keep trekkers, healthy and strong.)

Our lodging will be in Sherpa villages, many of them remote, giving us a rare look into both traditional and monastic communities. We access these villages through our long time Sherpa friends with the belief that a sharing of cultures is paramount in our understanding of the world. While the environs are often primitive by western standards, they are balanced by the warmth and tremendous support of the Sherpa people.

It is very likely that hikers will join world-class climbers on their trek to the summit of Kala Pattar (18,600ft) and Everest base camp (17,300ft) the point of origin for the Everest climb. This trek is an excellent opportunity to share in the excitement of a major Himalayan expedition and travel through one of the most magnificent and culturally rich regions on earth.

The trek to base camp is a strenuous, high-altitude hike. Participants should be in good physical condition and in excellent health. Porters and yaks will be used to carry supplies, food and gear. We encourage you to contact last years' trekkers and have them share their experiences with you.

Trek Itinerary
Days 1-3: Depart March 27th: USA-Bangkok-Kathmandu. (Overnight in Bangkok and arrive on March 29th in Kathmandu.) Upon arrival check into the renowned Yak and Yeti Hotel a cornerstone of the Kathmandu scene and attend a welcome dinner with other trekkers and climbers. (Most trekkers use Thai airways via LA/Bangkok/Kathmandu).

Day 4: Kathmandu. From the centrally located Yak and Yeti we begin our exploration of Kathmandu. While modern by Nepalese standards, Kathmandu is a sacred city to both Hindus and Buddhists. Our tour is an important initiation to understanding the cultures which lay ahead. Kathmandu has a strong presence in both Buddhist scriptures and Hindu texts such as the Ramayana. Our tour will include the 3000 year old Swamayabhu (monkey temple), the great Stupa of Bodnath and the chaotic Hindu temple complex of Pashupatineth. This temple is home to many Hindu aesthetics or Sadhus.

Day 5: After final administration requirements, we fly via Twin Otter STOL or Russian M-17 Helicopter to the dirt landing strip in Lukla. Weather permitting, this flight will offer outstanding views of the eastern Himalayas. In Lukla, we will meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the wonderful ascent to base camp. Our first day is an easy walk to lush environs of Phakding, located on the Dudh Kosi river.

Day 6: We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 2,300ft. through Himalayan pine and Doedar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar (11,300ft). The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. Our group will spend two days in Namche giving us the opportunity to acclimate, visit local markets and spend time with friends in town. Our camp is perched high above the city and we will make our way to nearby high points to capture our first glimpses of Everest and neighboring peaks.

Day 7: Visit sights in Namche Bazaar including the Sherpa museum and local market place.

Day 8: Perhaps one of the most fascinating days of the trek, we travel to the village of Thami (12,464ft). Home of our Sirdar (lead Sherpa), we will spend the evening visiting and dining with the family of Lakpa Rita Sherpa. His family has been a mainstay of this small community, raising yaks and farming. This will not only give us an intimate view of Sherpa culture but allows us visit a traditional home. Interestingly enough a number of famed climbing Sherpa have come from Thami. The "Thami" experience is one rarely afforded to trekkers.

Day 9: Waking early we climb to the Thami monastery and further explore local Buddhism. We will tour this 400 year old gompa and learn about the inner workings and lives of the monks. As we tour the monastery we will discuss the wall paintings and artifacts that are central to Buddhist practice. Before departure we will have the opportunity to meet and receive a blessing from the Thami Rinpoche (head priest). From Thami we walk to the beautiful village of Khunde, one of the largest villages in the Khumbu. The day's walk is moderate and rather pretty, winding through thick cedar forest. This is also the home of Sir Edmund Hillary's hospital and school.

Day 10: We continue on and climb to the village of Tengboche (12,683ft), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu. At the monastery we will attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals as performed by local monks. Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular. The jagged peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are visible to the north. The Monastery at Tengboche is one of the most well known in the world as the Rinpoche is revered throughout the Buddhist community and has authored a number of books and essays. In the past our groups have had an audience with the Rinpoche and received his blessing. This is often a moving and intense experience. Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde 20,293ft , Tawachee 21457ft, Nuptse 25,843 ft, Lhotse 27, 883ft, Everest 29,021ft , Ama Dablam 22,487ft, Kantega 22,235ft, Thamserku 21,674 ft.

Day 11:With the Rinpoche's blessing we travel on to charming Dingboche (14,450ft) via the Imja valley. The trail is gradually sloped for most of the morning as we make our way past the nunnery at Devuche. (By now you may have noticed that many villages end in "che". Che means "footprint" in Tibetan and hence these villages have been walked on by the Buddha.) Dingpoche is a stunning village of stone huts known as the summer village for local herders. The mountain views are outstanding from this valley as Makalu stands in the distance.

Day 12: We will remain in Dingboche for another night to better acclimatize. We will take a 4 hour walk to Chukkung which offers exquisite views of Island Peak and the North Face of Lhotse.

Day 13: From Dingboche we continue through this high alpine region to the settlement of Lobuje (16,174ft.), where we spend one night. This trail passes through the famed Sherpa memorial. Our lodging in Lobuje will be at the Italian Research Center. This not only allows us a glimpse into the some long term high altitude research but gives us a night indoors and some relief from the more harsh environs.

Day 14: The trail winds through the high tundra and glacial moraine to Gorak Shep (16,924ft), the last inhabited area before Everest Base Camp. While our Sherpa are setting up camp we will make an ascent of Kala Pattar (18,300ft.), a small peak with excellent views of Everest, Nuptse and nearby Pumori. Many of the famed Everest photos are taken from the summit of Kala Pattar. Gorak Shep presents a rougher environment and gives the trekker the true flavor of the nighttime rigors of mountaineering.

Day 15: We leave Gorak Shep and cross the moraine of the great Khumbu glacier to reach Base Camp, which lies beneath the sweeping ridges of Everest and Nuptse. Everest Base Camp at 17,300ft. is a sprawling tent city set amidst glacial debris. Here the climbers will begin final preparations for their ascent of Mt. Everest. We will spend a few hours at base getting a sense of the community and meeting climbers before returning to Gorak Shep. During our visit to camp we will venture to the edge of the notorious Khumbu Ice fall. From here, we can see climbers en route as they negotiate this complex maze of ice.

Day 16: We begin our return to lower altitudes and quickly feel the difference in our lungs. This night is spent in the village of Pheriche ( 13,907ft) which is not far from Dingboche. Pheriche has become famous for its high altitude research center. The center attracts world renown physicians who acquire data to analyze the effects of high altitude on human physiology. During our stay we will visit the research center and have time to chat with staff physicians. Day 17: Enjoying the downhill walks we will take our time and return to Tengboche by early afternoon. By this time many of the rhododendron forests have come into bloom. It is a spectacular sight!

Day 18: From Tengboche we easily walk back to Namche Bazaar. This seemingly remote village is suddenly a center of commerce where we spend two days shopping, drinking coffee, getting shaves, sampling food and enjoying all the thrills of "urban" life.

Day 19: Rest day in Namche where will attend any current cultural events. Our 1998 expedition was lucky enough to attend the first Sherpa play, which dealt with both modern and traditional themes.

Day 20: Our final walk (a long one) to Lukla will take most of the day where we will prepare for a flight back to Kathmandu. As it will be a final night in the Khumbu, we will have a celebration and learn traditional dance from our Sherpa friends and staff. It is a memorable night with much laughter and general merriment.

Day 21: Early morning flight to KTM (weather permitting) and we spend much of the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the deluxe services of the Yak and Yeti hotel.

Day 22: Walking tour of the city including the temples and sites of Durbar Square and the Thamel section. Here we will assist trekkers with their final shopping needs followed by a farewell dinner.

Day 23: Early morning departure for Bangkok.

Day 24: Arrival USA.

Animals along the way: While you're likely to see birds of prey such as eagles soaring overhead, be on the lookout for kestrels, choughs and snow pigeons. On the land we may encounter a variety of deer and the Himalayan Tahr which is a breed of mountain goat. Lastly keep a keen eye for the infamous Yeti, the great abominable snowman of the Himalayas. Any sighting should be immediately reported to 1- 800 - BIGFOOT. No kidding!

1998 Re-cap: It was a highly eventful trip with great coverage on the www. 100% success to Base Camp and the side trips to villages and participation in Sherpa life were extremely memorable.

A Very Brief Overview of Sherpa Life
Often inseparable from mountaineering, the Sherpas of Nepal inhabit much of the lower portion of the Himalayas known as the Solu-Khumbu or Khumbu. While their reputation as climbers is nothing short of historic, local Buddhist, animist and cultural traditions have equally nurtured and impacted a fascinating relationship with westerners and western thought.

Sherpa culture is distinctly different from the other 50 ethnic groups of Nepal which include Hindus, Muslims and Buddhists. In much of Nepal, Hindu and Buddhist thought have often blended into a single ideology. Other smaller ethnic groups such as the Gurkhas have also gained notoriety in the West as soldiers for the British Army.

Sherpas first became prominent to the West as British mountaineers set their sites on conquering Himalayan peaks. With the first Mt. Everest expedition in 1921, the skill, expertise, honesty and dedication of Sherpas as guides and partners became an integral part of Himalayan climbing. The affinity of outsiders for Sherpa/ Buddhist civilization has blossomed into an ever increasing sharing, understanding and friendship between these two cultures. One manifestation of this sharing is the acceptance of Texas style cowboy boots and hats as a suitable substitute for traditional wedding attire.

Prior to British expeditions, Sherpas revered the great mountains of the region as dwelling places of gods and goddesses, to which the thought of climbing was considered blasphemous. ( Chomolungma the Tibetan name for Everest is the residence of Miyo Lungsungama, the goddess of humans and prosperity.) The arrival of westerners brought money and laudatory rewards which encouraged the Sherpa to embrace climbing as part of their own culture. As Sherpas were praised and awarded for their climbing achievements, they adopted the sport's glories and tragedies. Sherpas traditionally worked as traders, farmers and religious folk. Along with these ancestral roles, leading climbs and treks has recently become a mainstay of the Sherpa economy.

"Sherpa" refers both to tribal group and a job capacity as porter, climber or trek leader. The term "Sherpa" means easterner, referring to their origins in Eastern Tibet. The migrations of this Tibetan culture began sometime in the early 1400's. (Tibetans/Sherpas are culturally very different depending on region of origin.) Although the Solu-Khumbu and neighboring regions such as the Langatang and Charicot districts of Nepal make up the majority of the population, emigration from the Khumbu has lead Sherpas to the Assam, Darjeeling and the Sikkim States in India. The Sherpa population in the Khumbu is about 5,000 with a total of 35,000 living in Nepal. Along with the inhabitants that came from Tibet were lay lamas, who brought Buddhist teachings, literature, history and developed the Sherpa language.

Life in the Khumbu:
Sherpa religion (a mixture of Buddhist and animist) and culture have evolved from thousands of years of myths, stories and strong religious practice. To many of us, the attempt to understand this culture in any depth has lead to an endless maze of woven stories and tales. While two Sherpa friends Ong Chu (first visit) and Lakpa (third visit) were touring with me in the United States, Ong Chu was amazed that we were able to drive in the side lane passed a huge line of stopped traffic. I assumed he thought we were "upper class" but Lakpa quickly figured out and explained to Ong Chu the concept of HOV (high occupancy vehicle) lanes. This was firm re-enforcement that our culture was relatively easy to interpret, while attempting to grasp Sherpa culture is much more difficult.

With the advent of tourism a considerable amount of the Khumbu economy now revolves around caring for trekkers and climbers. Many western foods have infiltrated the guest houses, but historically Sherpa food is derived from high-altitude crops such as potatoes, barley and buckwheat. Nepali foods like Dal (lentils) and rice and Tibetan Tsampa are also a staple of Sherpa diet.

Much of the trading between the lowland Nepalis and Tibetan peoples of the mountains take place at markets such as the Saturday market in Namche Bazaar. Namche is the administrative district for the Khumbu and is the traditional starting point for trips into Tibet over the Nangpa La pass. Tibetan traders would bring down yaks, salt and dried sheep meat from Tibet and return with goods from India such as rice, corn and millet. Along with food goods, jewelry is often traded at bazaars. As in much of the sub-continent, a persons or family's wealth is recognized by jewelry and is often displayed lavishly as bracelets and necklaces.

Today westerners play a vital role in supporting Sherpa culture by helping to fund a variety of projects in the Khumbu such as schools, hospitals and ecological programs.

Sherpa Buddhism and the Like:
The name Khumbu comes from its guardian deity Khumbila Tetsan Gelbu. The literal translation is "Khumbu country god." The teachings of Sherpa Buddhism talk of a spiritual understanding between all beings. This is probably why the level of hospitality and acceptance of westerners comes naturally to the Sherpa. Although it should be mentioned that the Tibetans are also considered fierce warriors.

In general, Buddhism can be a very open and accepting theory of thought. When grandparents of my friends went to Tibet upon it's opening to the West, they departed Sweden with the intention of converting Tibetans to a Christian religion. The missionaries were amazed at the way the Tibetans embraced their bible tales, listening and debating with intensity. Of course, very little if any converting was done, in fact the missionaries started to embrace some Buddhist practices. On a recent trip to Tibet, my friends went to the same village as their grandparents and found people who remembered their visit. "Ah yes, we remember your grandparents, such wonderful story tellers." Point being, that these were just stories, not different in importance from the stories of their own and accepted as an on-going mythology.

Sherpas on Everest:
It can be argued that the first notable and successful climbing Sherpa is Tenzing Norgay. In 1952, Norgay accompanied Raymond Lambert to within 800 vertical feet of the still unclimbed Mt. Everest. A year later Norgay was asked to join the British team led by Col. John Hunt, which successfully summited Everest, following the same route as Norgay and Lambert. Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary were the first climbers to summit Everest. By the mid 1980's Sherpas summitted Everest many more times than Westerners. Ang Rita Sherpa the most well known climbing Sherpa had amassed seven summits of Everest by 1995. In 1993 Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first Sherpa woman to summit Everest.

Information for this article and worthwhile resources for those interested in learning more about Sherpa culture can be found in: Vincanne Adams', Tigers of the Snow and Other Virtual Sherpas and Frances Klatztel and Ngawang Tenzin Zanbu's, Stories and Customs of the Sherpa.

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Payments: $700 deposit, due with application
balance, due January 1, 1998

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