Climbing Denali is a highly unique adventure. No other ascent offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the climb. The summit views from Denali are unparalleled, unveiling austere vistas of the Alaska Range, Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington. Denali's glaciers, beginning at 4,590ft and continuing to 20,360ft, are considered the greatest in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northern of any big mountain.

Denali expeditions are operated by Fantasy Ridge, an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park.

1997-'98 Recap
Alpine Ascents International booked teams of seven climbers to climb with Fantasy Ridge Mountain Guides, an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park. In 1998, a year with relatively few summits, the weather on Denali was just "terrible". Despite this, team II (led by Jim Williams) and team III led by Wally Berg had 100% success. Our earlier team was turned around after many days at 17,000ft.

The 1997 season on Denali brought outstanding success. Pete Athans and Sean Sullivan led the team of climbers to the summit in "record" time with wonderful weather. Jim Williams led a May team to the summit as well. All team members summitted (100% success). As one ranger said about a prior climb, "you guys might have the best team we've ever seen on the mountain."

The most unique aspect of our climb is the climber to guide ratio of 6:2 with some of the most experienced lead guides in the industry. Over the past two seasons, four of five teams summitted with 100% of the group a rare feat highlighting commitment to strong teams and small group size.

Climbing Overview
The Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. A Cessna 185 aircraft equipped with skis will drop us in this spectacular amphitheater. From here we begin the climb via the West Buttress route. Base Camp plus six higher camps will be established on the mountain. The team will make double carries between all camps, except high camp, to insure proper acclimatization and reduce loads to a manageable weight. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from base camp and we add an additional four days to allow for inclement weather. The ascent requires intermediate alpine skills and is very physically and mentally demanding.

A Brief History
Denali has always been revered by native Athabascans. The first climbing attempt in 1910 was made by the "Sourdough Expedition" using the Muldrow Glacier, summiting the north peak 19,740ft. In 1913, the true summit was successfully attempted via the Karstens Ridge by Archdeacon H. Stuck, R. Tatum, W. Harper and H. Karstens. Harper, a native Athabascan, was the first to stand atop America. Between 1913-1950, there were few ascents of Denali. The landmark achievement, which opened Denali to more climbers, was Bradford Washburn's 1951 summit of the West Buttress. Washburn's team used a ski-equipped plane to access the Kahiltna glacier and pioneered the mountain's most popular route. Barbara Washburn was the first woman to summit Denali as part of this expedition. Denali expeditions are operated by Fantasy Ridge, an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park.

Climbing Conditions
Denali is a mountain of extreme conditions where a climber may encounter 100 MPH winds and -40° temperatures. (Alternatively, some days are quite hot with sunshine lasting up to 20 hours.) Snowstorms are known to last a week at a time. These low temperatures and sporadic high winds greatly increase the rigors of the climb. The ice faces of the mountain feed countless glaciers as snow dominates most of the region. The unpredictable weather coupled with the high altitude of the ascent requires not only technical snow and cold weather skills, but endurance and fortitude.

Guiding Staff
Denali climbs require outstanding and highly experienced guides. Many of the guides have historical climbing achievements synonymous with their names. The role of a guide is to impart knowledge, use calculated judgment and assist individual climber's development. Thus, we stress our acute ability to provide students and expedition members with personal attention, realizing the commitment to assist each member in obtaining their goals. All guides for Denali guides are selected and employed by Fantasy Ridge Mountain Guides.

Previous lead guides have been the following and one of these will likely lead the 98 climbs:

Todd Burleson: Director and founder of Alpine Ascents International, Todd has achieved unparalleled success in the mountain guiding industry and is considered among the top guides in the world. Todd spent most of his childhood in Alaska where his prowess and love for mountaineering was developed. He is the youngest American to have summitted the highest mountain on each continent. In his sixteen years of climbing, he has led seven expeditions to Mt. Everest (summiting twice), and has guided successful expeditions on every continent. Todd has excellent guiding success throughout the world and leads many of Alpine Ascents's international climbs. In addition to instructing mountaineering training courses, Todd has recently led successful expeditions to Carstensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Vinson, Mt. Everest, and Denali.

Vernon Tejas: An expert climber and charismatic leader, Vernon has summitted the highest mountain on each continent and has guided over twenty climbs on Denali. He is noted for Denali's first solo winter ascent and has recently returned from Antarctica as a lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughn's ascent of Mt. Vaughn. In addition to his fame and expertise in the extreme environments of Alaska and Antarctica, he has strong experience in South American climbing and leads programs for Alpine Ascents's mountaineering school. Vernon led one of our successful 1996 Denali (operated by Fantasy Ridge) climbs.

Peter Athans: Defined by his peers as "one of the greatest Himalayan guides around," Pete has summitted Mt. Everest a record five times (participated in 12 Everest expeditions) and has developed an outstanding reputation as a leader and guide. Pete's climbing expertise may even be overshadowed by his ability to guide and successfully assist others in reaching summits around the world. Having lived in Nepal for a number of years he is an outstanding resource on Nepalese culture. He is also an accomplished photographer and has completed a number of film projects. Pete has been climbing for almost twenty years and led Alpine Ascents climbs to Mt. Everest, Denali, Cho-Oyu, Carstensz Pyramid, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua and Mexico's Volcanoes. Pete led the 97 expedition and spent the 95 season assisting Denali National Park with rescues.

Willi Prittie: Willi has been climbing, guiding and teaching for over twenty years. Director of the North Cascades Mountaineering School, Willi is considered one of the premier instructors in America and his students have had outstanding success in reaching personal goals. Willi is a Senior Guide for the American Mountain Guides Association and is responsible for accrediting new guides into the AMGA. Fluent in Spanish and well versed in South American culture he has developed an outstanding reputation for leading safe and successful trips. Needless to say, Willi has developed quite a following and has led Alpine Ascents climbs to Mt. Sajama, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Cho-Oyu, Denali and Aconcagua.

Some brief comments from our past climbs on Denali:
" Alpine Ascents is at the top of my list when it comes to expedition leaders, particularly by the level of expertise and professionalism embodied by Vern."
Victor Vescovo

"I was seeking a life time experience on a major mountain and I got it."
Fred Wolfe

"Outstanding in every area - knowledge, skill and calm, confident leadership. Way beyond my furthest expectations!"
Elton Davis

We encourage you to contact last year's expedition members. [Click here for climber comments.]

Training
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team membership, adequate training is required. Climbers must be able to carry 60lbs at high altitude and be not only physically but mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations. Do not underestimate the physical conditioning that is needed to climb Denali. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs.

Expedition Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Anchorage. In Anchorage we will meet guides and team members and run a complete gear check. You will be responsible for hotels and meals while in Anchorage. We will assist you with Anchorage hotels and help with reservations. All preparations are made for an early morning departure.

Day 2: Travel to Talkeetna. After a final gear check we board a 185 Cessna aircraft to base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier (7,300ft). (The flight will depart that afternoon or the following morning.) The flight to Kahiltna is marvelous, presenting outstanding views of magnificent peaks and glaciers including Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Moose's Tooth.

Day 3: On the Kahiltna Glacier. We spend the day at base camp, preparing for the climb and reviewing crevasse rescue and glacier travel.

Day 4: Carry loads to Camp I (7,900ft). Snowshoes may be necessary between camps on the lower part of the mountain. Double carries are made between most camps to allow for proper acclimatization and lighter load carries.

Day 5: Move to Camp I.

Day 6: Carry loads to Camp II (10,000ft), at Kahiltna Pass. This route follows the Kahiltna glacier.

Day 7: Move to Camp II.

Day 8: Carry gear to Camp III (11,500ft). We turn west and ascend steep terrain. Camp III offers exquisite views and vistas of the 3,000ft rock and ice face on the edge of the West Buttress.

Day 9: Move to Camp III.

Day 10: Carry gear to Camp IV(14,200ft). We will pass around Windy Corner, which exposes stunning panoramic views of surrounding peaks and the northeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier, 4,000ft below.

Day 11: Move to Camp IV. Depending upon climbing conditions, we may spend an extra day moving gear to Camp IV. This will aid acclimatization and break up the long carry.

Day 12: Rest and acclimatize at Camp IV. The upcoming ascent is the most demanding part of the climb.

Day 13: Carry loads to Camp V (16,400ft). From Camp IV we ascend 1,100ft of moderate snow slopes to reach the beginning of the fixed lines. Using ascenders on the lines to self-belay, we ascend the Headwall which consists of 900ft of 45° to 50° snow and ice. Upon reaching the crest of the west buttress, we enter the world of the mountain tops. The climb takes on an entirely different nature as the feeling of being amongst the clouds and peaks dominates the senses.

Day 14: Move to Camp V.

Day 15: Carry and move to Camp VI (17,200ft). We follow an exposed ridge around Washburn's Tower which merges into the main massif of Denali. Camp VI is established on a saddle just above "Rescue Gully" and overlooks Camp IV, 3000ft below us.

Day 16: Rest day. Rest and prepare for the summit attempt.

Day 17: Summit day. We traverse across a steep snow face to Denali pass. From here we follow gentle slopes to reach Archdeacons Tower and a large plateau at 19,400ft, known as the "football field." From the plateau we ascend on moderate terrain to the crest of the summit ridge. From this vantage point, we look upon the immense 8,000ft South Face, with Cassin Ridge and the South Buttress in full view. As we follow an exposed ridge up the last 300ft, excitement grows as we approach the top of North America.

From the summit we'll have a 360° view of the Alaska Range, with Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington to the south and Mt. Foraker to the west. These peaks, along with scores of others, make this mountain view one of the most impressive in the world.

By day's end we return from the summit to spend the night at high camp.

Days 18-19: Return to base camp. From high camp we spend two days returning to Base Camp where we will board our Cessna and return to Talkeetna and then on to Anchorage.

Day 20: Depart Anchorage. Fly from Anchorage to home city.

Days 21-23: Extra Days. Extra days for inclement weather and acclimatization may be utilized at any point on the expedition.

Note: This itinerary represents an ideal schedule. Due to the nature of climbing Denali, there may be delays due to weather. It is important to keep schedules slightly flexible, because as always, we will take extra days if necessary to give everyone the best possible chance of success.

Prerequisite
Successful completion of Alpine Ascents International's 6-day Mountaineering course, Denali Prep course or comparable experience.

The intensive 8-day Denali Prep program is directly geared toward preparing climbers for a Denali expedition.

About Climbing the Seven Summits
Throughout the years Alpine Ascents has assisted climbers in reaching the highest point on each continent. As of July 1997, 6 of the 18 Americans to complete the seven summits have done a substantial portion of their climbs with Alpine Ascents International. Click here for the reflections of a seven summiter.

For those with Seven Summit aspirations, there is a logical progression which enables climbers to build on previously developed skills. This suggested program is economically prudent and considers technical skill level, acclimatization and summit success rates.

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Land Costs Include: