Cho-Oyu is an attractive and unique climb on many levels. While most Himalayan ascents can take in excess of two months, a climb of Cho-Oyu can be comfortably completed in six weeks. While not a highly technical ascent, it is a very robust climb.

Alpine Ascents's Success on High Altitude Peaks
Last season, Alpine Ascents put five members on the summit of Mt. Cho-Oyu. This included the first South African to summit an 8000m peak and we look forward to similar accomplishments in 1997. Our reputation for leading climbs in the Himalayas is superb including summits of Ama Dablam and five successful guided climbs of Mt. Everest. Of the approximately 400 people to summit Everest, 30 have been with Alpine Ascents. Our trip to Cho-Oyu will be lead by the world's top climbers and native Sherpa.

Climbing Terrain
While the challenge of high altitude climbing cannot be underestimated, the technical nature of the ascent moderate. Our route is comprised of snow slopes with occasional short sections of ice climbing and rock scrambling. As the climb will be in classic alpine style, we will employ Sherpa and use some fixed ropes for speed and safety. Our itinerary has extra days built in for inclement weather and slow acclimatization. Sherpa will also assist in load carrying and camp preparation. The assistance of expert Sherpa greatly increases our chances of success. With this in mind, Cho-Oyu is the logical choice for those desiring to climb an 8000m peak.

Acclimatization in the Khumbu
As Alpine Ascents International spends so much time in the Khumbu, we'll have the chance to really experience the "Land of the Sherpa." The Khumbu is a wonderful setting to acclimatize, gaze into the Himalayas and visit homes and monasteries of the region. Our intimate friendship affords us a rare glimpse into the personal and spiritual lives of the Sherpa community. (Last season we were invited to visit an elderly Lama who has lived in a cave dwelling for 30 years. We were greatly honored as the Lama performed a Puja (blessings) and spoke about the nature of his existence. Later we learned he has seen fewer than twenty foreigners in his life.) Click here for a brief overview of Sherpa life.

Route
Our route is the West Face and West Ridge, first pioneered in 1954 by the successful Austrian expedition led by Herbert Tichy. This expedition was far ahead of its time, as it consisted of only three members and seven Sherpa. At that time, small parties rarely climbed on the highest mountains as it was popularly deemed mandatory to have large quasi-military expeditions to ensure success.

Expedition Itinerary
Our expedition begins in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. After two days of preparation and sightseeing, we helicopter to the famed Khumbu region (home of the Sherpa) and begin acclimitizing. During our stay we will explore the monastic community of Thame and the village of Tengboche. Tengboche is a religious mecca where we will visit the monastary and attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals. The views from Tengboche are spectacular with Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam standing in the distance.

After five or six days in the Khumbu we helicopter back to Kathmandu. We will have one day to complete all final arrangements and gear checks and then we'll head to Zhangmu, the border of Tibet. In Zhangmu we will be met by our Tibetan counterparts who will drive us for the next two days across the vast desert highlands of the Tibetan plateau to our base camp (16,400'). We are able to reach this altitude quickly due to our acclimatization period in Nepal. After a day of preparation in base camp we will begin our two day trek. From here we will be met by our Tibetan yak drivers and 30-40 yaks who will carry our loads to advance base camp (18,500') at the foot of the famous Nangpa-La pass. This is the gap in the Himalaya through which the first traders from Tibet traveled to initiate trade with Nepal.

The next three/four days are spent establishing Advance Base Camp and making short acclimatization forays to the lower reaches of the west ridge. With the assistance of our Sherpa team, we will place Camp I (19,300ft) at the toe of the west ridge.

Over the next ten days we will establish Camp II (22,400ft) and Camp III (24,900ft). We repeatedly move up and down the mountain to enhance good acclimatization and fitness. Once our last camp is set and the team is ready, we begin the summit climb.

Our summit attempt will begin between midnight and 1:00am. From high camp we will move up a snow face of 25-300 to reach the West ridge proper. This gentle ridge leads to the large summit plateau at approximately 26,000'. From here we will spend the next hour traveling across this plateau to reach the true summit and a spectacular 3600 view which includes Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and hundreds of other Himalayan peaks. From the summit, the entire Everest massif stands before us, with excellent views of the Western Cwm and the west face of Lhotse. To the north lies the Tibetan plateau (the highest in the world) and to the south stand hundreds of Nepalese peaks.

After reaching the summit, our team will descend to Camp II. It will take approximately five days to clear the mountain and move equipment back to Base Camp. This, combined with good route preparation, give us an excellent chance for success

Once we have arrived in Base Camp and have said farewell to our Tibetan yak-drivers, we begin our return to Nepal. After arriving in Kathmandu, there will be time to sort equipment and celebrate in Nepal's fascinating, multi-cultural capital city before our international departures. We hope you will join us on what promises to be a memorable and exciting expedition to one of the world's great mountains!

Daily Itinerary
Day 1: Depart USA
Day 2: Flights to Nepal
Day 3: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 4-9: Sight see and prepare in Khumbu region
Day 10-11: Drive to Zhangmu, Tibet Drive to Tingri
Day 11-22: Trek to Base Camp. Establish Base Camp and organize gear. Establish Camp I (19,300ft), carry loads. Establish Camp II (22,400ft), carry loads.Establish Camp III (24,600ft), carry loads. Rest in Base Camp.
Day 23: Summit bid. Return to Camp II
Day 24: Return to Base Camp
Day 25-30: Extra time for additional summit bid (if necessary)
Day 31-33: Clear mountain; Return to Tingri
Day 34: Return to Kathmandu
Day 35: Kathmandu
Day 36: Depart Kathmandu
Day 37: Return USA

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Land Costs Include:

Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Alpine Ascents

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