Course Info

1999 Dates

Alpine I:
May 29-June 10

Alpine II:
June 14-26

Alpine III:
June 30-July 12

Alpine IV:
July 16-28

Alpine V:
August 1-13

Alpine VI:
August 17-29

Alpine VII:
September 3-16

Climbing Level
Beginner to Intermediate

Prerequisite
Excellent physical condition. Good camping skills.

Climber/Guide
Ratio: 4:1

Cost
$1,840



From the Bookstore


Mountaineering -- Freedom of the Hills

by Don Graydon

Classic climbing course text; solid info on all aspects of mountain, rock and ice climbing. Available in paperback.


Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

by Andy Selters

Characteristics of glaciers, crevasse rescue, route finding, gear, etc; includes special skiing info.

Ice World -- Techniques & Experiences Of Modern Ice Climbing
by Jeff Lowe

Comprehensive, state-of-the-art how to on various terrain: snow climbing, glacier travel, climbing mixed ice & rock.

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North Cascades Mountaineering School
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13 Day Mountaineering Course
The 13-day Alpine Mountaineering course is the most comprehensive program we offer. It combines skills learned in the 6-day Mountaineering course with an additional seven days of rock instruction, including ascents of technical alpine rock peaks. This course is highly demanding and its rewards are significant. It is designed for both beginning and intermediate climbers who are in excellent physical condition and serious about acquiring in-depth experience in all aspects of alpine climbing.

The alpine peaks we ascend are glacially-carved rock summits. Many still have active glaciers and snow fields which add to their challenge and appeal. Alpine mountaineering is one of the most aesthetic types of climbing, requiring a variety of skills and involving all aspects of the environment. This course requires excellent physical condition.

Course Objectives
Increasing technical knowledge and skill in all aspects of snow, ice and alpine rock climbing. Developing educated, self-reliant climbers with the ability to evaluate subjective/objective hazards. Topics include all material covered in the 6-day course plus:

  • Lead and multi-pitch climbing
  • Aid climbing
  • Crack and face climbing techniques
  • Route finding
  • Rope and belay techniques
  • Top roping
  • Protection placement
  • Rappelling
  • Running belays and running protection

Course Itinerary
Days 1-6: Same as 6-day Mountaineering Course [click for full description] although day-to-day is subject to change based upon conditions.

Day 7: Climbing techniques and top roping. We begin the day with a warm-up bouldering tour, demonstrating various climbing techniques such as edging, smearing and proper balance. After our warm-up we practice setting up top rope anchors to climb various routes. Much of the day is spent top roping several routes to give you experience on both face and crack climbing. The day ends with a series of rappels, a technique used for descending steep terrain. We camp in local campgrounds during days 7, 8 and 9.

Day 8: Additional advanced rock and varied climbing. The day begins with the preliminary bouldering warm-up tour. Next we cover belay anchors and running protection for both lead and multi-pitch climbing. Our goal is to teach you how to move quickly and safely on moderately technical terrain. In alpine climbing it is important to be able to reach bivouac sites, etc. before dark. The day ends with a series of rappels.

Day 9: Aid climbing and advanced protection placement. This is the last day of formalized training before attempting our first alpine peak. We cover techniques used in aid climbing and advanced protection placement. This day gives you excellent experience in placing your own protection.

Days 10-13: Ascents of alpine rock peaks. The last four days of the course are spent climbing some of the North Cascades finest peaks. The guides will choose climbs which are in the best condition and which most aptly match students skill level. Potential peaks include: Mt Shuksan, Twin Sisters, Forbidden, Mt Sloan, Eldorado Peak, Torment, Buckner, Logan, Glacier Peak, Chair Peak, The Tooth and Guy Peak.

Student Comments
"Everything I could have hoped for. The course gave me enough exposure and training to create an intense desire to keep climbing and pursue high altitude goals." —Brian C.


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All Alpine Ascents courses on Mount Baker are run under a
special use permit issued by Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.



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