Expedition Info
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and Illimani, Bolivia [See the Gear List] [Client Comments] The Spanish named the mountains of the Andes, cordilleras (knotted ropes) to depict their wild and rugged nature. The Cordillera Real (royal range), is Bolivia's foremost climbing region with eight peaks rising above 6,000m. The goal of our 15 day expedition is an ascent of Huayna Potosi and Pequeno Alpamayo, which stands in bold relief above the altiplano (high plateau). The panoramic views from their summits are exquisite as these dramatic peaks are considered by many to be the most stunning mountains in the Cordillera Real. The first days of the expedition are spent in La Paz, the world's highest capital, acclimatizing, shopping and exploring Tiwanaku. The ancient land of Tiwanaku, located just south of Lake Titicaca (12,500'), was the center of Bolivia's most important pre-Colombian civilization. Fifty percent of Bolivia's descendants are of Amyara and Quecha (pre-Colombian) cultures. You will often hear Aymara and Quecha city residents referred to as "cholos." Today, the Aymara, descendants of the Tiwanaku, raise alpaca and llama while living off potatoes, barley and quinoa, which are grown in the altiplano. Upon leaving La Paz we begin our expedition to three peaks. These easy to moderately difficult ascents of three Andean peaks is an ideal trip for Mountaineering School graduates and experienced climbers alike. We will complete a basic skills review on the spectacular peak of Ilusion, an easy snow climb, and absorb the numerous sights from the summit. We proceed to Pequeno Alpamayo, considered by many to be the most beautiful mountain in the world. Simply an outstanding climb, the aesthetic nature of this mountain embodies the lure of Bolivian climbing. The steep fluted faces and knife-edge ridges of this pyramid-shaped peak, allow us to drink in the full range of South American vistas. Our final objective is Huyana Potosi with moderately steep terrain of snow and ice and wonderful exposure from the narrow airy summit (looking over the 3000ft. west face). It is a highly memorable and challenging climb for even the most seasoned alpinist. Illimani Extension Already acclimatized from Huayna Potosi, those interested may remain in this stunning region to attempt Illimani, the highest point in Bolivia. Illimani is probably the most popular mountain in the Cordillera Real, as it looms over La Paz's Southeastern skyline. Our climb will consist of a series of camps, utilizing a prominent ridge along the west face. It is a relatively easy climb with few crevassed areas. The ascent itself is quite spectacular with three summits above 20,000 feet! This wonderful climb will give you the chance to stand over 21,000 feet. Bolivia Expedition Itinerary Days 1-2: Depart Miami and arrive La Paz, Bolivia. La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, stands at 11,900' above sea level. Its population of roughly one million people is diverse and rugged. The air at this altitude is quite thin and for most people it takes a few days to acclimatize. However, the sheer magnificence of the mountains that cradle the city more than makes up for any physical discomfort. We will spend some time here wandering the hilly streets and acclimatizing for our climb. Day 3: Visit Tiwanaku, Bolivia's most important archaeological site. We will spend the day wandering through the monumental stone figures, courtyards and the impressive Gate of the Sun. The Gate of the Sun is part of an elaborate observatory that is believed to have functioned as a solar calendar dating back to 600B.C. While not as imposing as Machu Picchu, it provides a fascinating glimpse into the Aymara ancient peoples. Day 4: Drive from La Paz (11,900') to village of Tuni. Burros will carry all our gear to our basecamp near the shores of Lake Tuni Condorini (15,000 + feet). Day 5: Acclimatization hike to about 16,000 feet on a ridge above camp. This is an easy day geared toward acclimatization and wandering among grazing llamas. July 9: Rest day in Lima. Sightseeing and relaxation before arrival of other Huascaran expedition members. Day 6: Skills review and prep for the climb of Ilusion. We will practice self-arrest & review roped-travel techniques. Day 7: Early departure for climb of Ilusion. This is an easy snow climb with excellent views of nearby peaks. Day 8: We attempt Pequeno Alpamayo. This stunning peak remains hidden until we reach a minor peak before the summit. The route is quite beautiful, following an aesthetic, airy ridge. From the summit, we have breathtaking views of the Amazon Basin, the barren altiplano, the impressive bulk of Mt. Sajama and our next objective, Huayna Potosi. Day 9: After a leisurely hike out we will drive back to La Paz for some much needed rest. Day 10: Rest day in La Paz. We will visit museums, go shopping and relax. Day 11: Drive to Huayna Potosi overnight in tents or hut near the beautiful Laguna Zongo. Day 12: After hiring porters to assist with gear, we move to high camp at 5600m at Campo Argentino. This is a full day of climbing. Day 13: Summit day. Early wake up as our ascent can take up to 8 hours. After some interesting glacier travel through ice falls and around crevasses we reach the final exciting ridge leading to Bolivia's famed summit. Fantastic views of the Cordillera Real await us on the top. Day 14: Extra summit day if needed. Return to La Paz. Day 15: Return USA Illimani Extension Day 15: Rest day In La Paz. Day 16: Drive to Illimani trailhead where we begin our approach to basecamp from the village of Pinaya. Burros will carry our food & equipment, making the 3-5 hour approach more reasonable. Day 17: From basecamp we scramble over easy rock and to our high camp known as Nido de Condores (The Condor's Nest) located at about 5600m. Day 18: Summit Day. After threading our way through a series of crevassed areas we reach moderately steep slopes (30-40°) for several hours before reaching the scenic summit ridge. The view from the summit of one of South America's finest peaks is outstanding. A great reward to a strenuous and fantastic day of climbing. Day 19: Optional summit day. Day 20: After our summit climb we return to the trailhead for the drive back to La Paz. Day 21: Fly USA.
Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator
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