Our approach to the summit of Aconcagua is highly unique. We ascend via the less traveled and more esthetically pleasing Vacas Valley route. This beautiful and pristine ascent offers a rare climbing opportunity as we encounter very few climbers and spend quiet evenings in the rich mountain wilderness.

We ascend the mountain by establishing a series of progressively higher camps. Our itinerary includes four extra days for rest, acclimatization and inclement weather conditions. All our gear will be carried by mules to the base of the mountain. Alpine Ascents' guides have found that enjoyment and success rates on Aconcagua are significantly increased by this extended itinerary. The combination of our expert guiding staff and an outstanding route help create an unsurpassed expedition.

For those climbers who are interested and capable, we also offer an additional summit attempt via the more technically difficult Polish Glacier route. The climb begins from Camp III and entails a 3,500ft elevation gain on steep snow and ice. The climb averages a steepness of 350 and depending upon conditions, may have technical ice sections up to 600. This is a very challenging climb both technically and physically. Climbers attempting this route need previous ice climbing experience and must acclimatize well to altitudes over 22,000ft. This is a very rewarding climb in itself and is an excellent training climb for those wishing to attempt a Himalayan giant.

Expedition Itinerary
Days 1-2: Flight: USA-Santiago, Chile (morning arrival). From the Santiago airport we take a bus across the continental divide into Argentina to the town of Puente del Inca (8,900ft). Puente del Inca or Inca Bridge is a small town which is the center of activity for climbing Aconcagua. It takes its name from the natural mineral bridge over the Las Cuevas River once used by the Incas. In Puente del Inca, we organize mule loads, enjoy a group "welcome dinner," and spend the night.

Days 3-5: After one night in Puente del Inca (8,900ft), we drive to Punta de Vacas (8,000ft), where we will begin our three-day 30 mile trek into Plaza Argentina (13,800ft.), base camp for our expedition. All of our gear will be carried by mules so we can enjoy the trek without heavy loads. On the approach, we walk through green desert valleys dramatically enclosed between the mountains of the Andes. During the first half of the approach, our objective will remain hidden by the nearby mountains. However, by the end of the second day the stunning east face of Aconcagua will dramatically be revealed.

Days 6-7: After our arrival at Plaza Argentina, we set up camp and spend the next two days preparing for the climb, exploring the local terrain and acclimatizing to the higher altitude.

Days 8-9: Carry and move to Camp I. Camp I is located behind an old moraine at 16,075ft. We double carry to keep pack weight down and help ensure good acclimatization.

Days 10-11: Carry and move to Camp II. Camp II is located in a high pass at 17,700ft and provides spectacular views of surrounding mountains.

Day 12: Move to Camp III (19,200ft), located just below the Polish Glacier.

Day 13: Move to high camp, Camp IV (20,600ft), located on the North Ridge. On the approach, we will enjoy magnificent views of the Polish Glacier. Camp III offers breathtaking scenes of many of the highest peaks of the Andes.

Day 14: Here (or at Camp II) we generally take a rest day prior to the summit to acclimate further and maximize everyone's chance of success.

Day 15: Summit day begins at 5:00am. We climb the North Ridge to Refugio Independencia at approximately 21,400ft. From there, we will traverse the West Face and climb up into the Canaleta, an 800ft coulior which leads to the summit ridge. Finally, the Guanaco Ridge poses an easy traverse to the summit.

On the top we have a spectacular 3600 view. All around you will see the Andes Mountains consisting of several 20,000ft peaks including one of the highest peaks in South America, Mercedario (about 22,300ft). To the west lies Chile and the Pacific Ocean, and to the east, the plains of Argentina. Also from the summit you will be able to look directly down the 9,000ft South Face of Aconcagua, considered one of the great faces of the world.

Note: For those qualified, we offer an additional ascent via the Polish Glacier Direct. This route ascends directly up the steep Polish Glacier (Northeast Face) with over 3,500ft of moderate to steep ice.

Days 16-19: Acclimatization, rest and bad weather days. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit.

Days 20-22: Return hike from Plaza Argentina to Puente del Inca.

Days 23: Return to Santiago.

Days 24: Early morning return flight USA.

Should the expedition finish early, we will have the option of visiting Mendoza or other sites as the situation arises.

Guides
Willi Prittie: With over 20 successful ascents of Aconcagua (including the Polish Glacier), Willi has an outstanding reputation on Aconcagua and is one of America's premier guides and instructors. Willi has been climbing, guiding and teaching for over twenty years and is the Director of our North Cascades Mountaineering School. Fluent in Spanish and well versed in South American culture, he has developed an outstanding reputation for leading safe and successful trips. His success on Aconcagua is unique in the industry with over twenty ascents of the mountain. Other notable climbs include: Cho-Oyu, Ecuador's Volcanoes, Denali and Pumori.

Willi will be assisted by Ellie Henke and Anna Triep, a local Argentinean. Ellie has been assisting Willi for the past five years and has greatly enhanced our trips by bringing her many years of South American climbing knowledge to each climb. Anna is one of the most renowned guides in the region and her intimate knowledge of the local culture, combined with her extremely strong guiding skills, adds a rich dimension to the overall expedition.

1997/1998 Expedition Recaps
During the 1997 season, Willi led our first two teams to the summit with great success. (7 of 9 summited on the first trip; 6 of 9 summited on the second trip). Tom Bridge led our third trip with 100% success. The 1998 season met with the harshest weather in not-so-recent history, and very few ascent of the mountain were made. Willi and company were turned around above high camp the first time around. The second group fared much better, with slightly better weather, and 5 of 9 summited. As always we would be happy to share the outstanding evaluations from these expeditions. [Click here to see the archived Cybercast of the '97 Expedition.]

About Climbing the Seven Summits
Throughout the years Alpine Ascents has assisted climbers in reaching the highest point on each continent. As of July 1997, 6 of the 18 Americans to complete the seven summits have done a substantial portion of their climbs with Alpine Ascents International. Click here for the reflections of a seven summiter.

For those with Seven Summit aspirations, there is a logical progression which enables climbers to build on previously developed skills. This suggested program is economically prudent and considers technical skill level, acclimatization and summit success rates.

-- Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents Program Coordinator

Land Costs Include: