Hello in Cyberland,
Today is May 11, and in Base Camp that means that some expeditions are starting to climb the walls instead of the mountain. You see, every year there are some expeditions who just want to get to the top early and then get out of here. And the definition of early means sometime around the 10th of May, which is NOW! The problem is that finding the right weather "window" for a summit attempt is never an easy task, and this year for the early summiters it is particularly difficult.
Here in Base Camp almost every expedition has at least a computer and a satellite telephone, so each expedition is receiving at least one weather report (and sometimes more) to help them in their decision-making. Right now we know of several expeditions, including the Indian/Nepalese Army expedition, a South African group, and at least one French team, who are gazing into the crystal ball and trying to decide which is the magic date to try for the summit.
Unfortunately for them, right now the jet stream is tweaking around with them a bit. I know of at least four different weather reports that expeditions are receiving. Most of those reports agree that the jet stream is lurking out there like a giant dragon. The problem is determining how soon and how strong it will strike. Some of the reports say that the next few days will be ok; other reports are saying "get off the upper mountain NOW!" The big question is "Which is it?????" (How much do you trust your weather report at home? Got any picnics planned?) So, you can see why some expeditions are well on their way up that nervous wall. Folks at home, you can help! Just double over your fingers and start chewing your fingernails right along with the folks here at Base Camp.
Luckily our Alpine Ascents expedition is not yet involved in the fingernail biting. Our turn will come in another week or so. At this point our team has just finished the usual miserable first acclimation night at Camp III and will be heading back to Base Camp tomorrow (the request has already been submitted for Ong Chu's delicious cheese/potato momos for lunch), followed by a delectable journey down the valley for a few days of rest, recovery, and thick air after their efforts up in the lofty heights. I'll let the team tell you about their tossing, turning, and gasping for air all night in their next report (it's all normal, folks - just part of the acclimation process that allows them to go to the summit. It's also why we sane people don't go up to those places). Anyway, don't get carried away with the nail biting. Save some for us! We'll need it just as much as those other teams when our turn comes.
So even though the team decides to stay clipped into those fixed lines for a little while longer whenever they hear me say it, this is Ellie Henke signing off for Alpine Ascents International, Everest Base Camp.
— Ellie Henke, Alpine Ascents International Guide and MountainZone.com Correspondent