Rock Climbing Anchor Basics - Belaying the Leader
Belaying the Leader
When belaying the leader, you'll belay directly off your harness, preferably with the belay device connected to the belay loop.
Upward Anchor for Belaying
Before belaying a leader, consider whether an upward-pull anchor is important. Belayers often go unanchored when belaying from flat ground. An upward anchor is warranted if:
- the climber is considerably larger than the belayer
- the belay is away from the wall so a fall could slam the belayer into the wall.
An upward-pull anchor that follows the ABC principle will keep you from getting lifted if the leader takes a whipper. Remember though: once you're anchored you are a sitting duck for falling rocks; do it in a safe area.
When belaying on a multipitch climb anchors are mandatory (except - possibly - on the first pitch). Most of the anchors are set for downward pull, with the belayer positioned below the anchors. A hard fall can still lift the belayer, unless a specific upward anchor is set to prevent this. It's often good for the belayer to lift a bit in a fall because it gives a more dynamic belay, decreasing the force on the climber and the top anchor. It's not good for the belayer to get lifted if she smashes into a roof or another rock feature, so use a direct upward-pull anchor when dangerous features exist.
Never belay a leader while standing far away from the wall, or off to the side of the first protection piece, unless you're anchored. Otherwise, if the leader falls she might drag you into the wall, causing her to fall farther, and possibly causing you to lose control of the belay rope. Even if you are anchored, belaying far off to the side puts extra slack in the lead rope, causing the leader to fall farther than necessary if she comes off.
An upward-pull anchor can be clipped directly to the belay loop so any force goes right onto the anchor. This will provide a fairly static belay, but can be useful for small climbers belaying large climbers.
You can use the rope to connect to an upward-pull anchor. Clove hitch the master point, clinch it tight, and then clove hitch the upward anchor and cinch the clove hitches tight against each other. The rigging here will allow some belayer lift, but not much.
You can connect the upward anchor to the back of your harness using a girth-hitched sling, as shown here. You can also clip the anchor to your haul loop, provided it is full strength.
An upward-pull ground anchor may be warranted when top-roping if the climber seriously outweighs the belayer, or if the belayer is likely to get pulled sideways. Don't do this in a place where rock fall is possible.
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