SCARPA Mago Rock Shoe - Outdoor Gear Review

Winner of Climbing Magazine’s 2007 Editor’s Choice Award, the Mago is the latest addition to SCARPA’s top-end line of rock shoes. Acclaimed for its ability to provide comfortable support and high-performance sensitivity, the Mago is a showcase of the latest technology developed by SCARPA.

Offering exceptional support, the Mago is designed with the new X-tension™ technology. Developed by SCARPA, X-tension provides bands that cross beneath the arch of the foot, providing maximum support as you maneuver your feet into the most obscure holds. Lace-up suede uppers with a Lorica® toe box allow you to adjust this shoe for a snug fit without worrying about stretching around your toes. The aggressively downturned last and toe power support (TPS) insert let you grip the most hidden hold. Your grab is enhanced by careful placement of sticky Vibram® XSGrip™ patches on the sole.

Needless to say, we were anxious to get these shoes laced up for a go on the local 9b, and see for ourselves. Now, climbing shoes require a few weeks of regular use for me to break in. I know that seems excessive to some, and envy those people who can be comfortable in a new shoe in just a few hours, but that’s my burden to bear. However, this shoe felt far more familiar much quicker. What I found especially noteworthy about this shoe was the effects of the bands across the arch. On paper they sound too good to be true, but when put to use they perform very much as described. The result was increased hold strength and less strain on the toes on smaller holds. If you’re thinking this increased support came at the expense of sensitivity you would be wrong. This shoe is as sensitive as they come, providing excellent performance on most anything you can throw at it.

Careful construction has yielded a shoe that not only offers climbing power, but sensitivity as well. The Mago provides the ability to feel the terrain you are climbing across and adjust to the subtle contours of the rock without compromising support. Excelling in both toe and heel hooking, this climbing shoe performs especially well on overhanging routes due to the good grab provided by the sole patches.