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 Home > South Col Dispatch Index > April 30 Special Report

Al Hanna, 71, On His Fourth Attempt
Base Camp -Tuesday, April 30, 2002

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Al Hanna, 71
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This is Chicagoan Al Hanna, at almost age 72, reporting in from Everest Base Camp on my fourth effort to reach the summit of Mount Everest and become the oldest person to climb Everest, and become the oldest person to climb the seven summits.

My previous efforts to climb Everest were in 1993, 1995 and 2000. In 2000, Vern Tejas and I reached the south summit which is 28,700 feet, or 300 feet short of the actual summit. Back this year and very excited. You've asked, as an old hand, what is it like to climb Everest this year.

Everest is always an area that is harsh, hostile, hazardous, unforgiving and uncompromising. It's a marvelous experience to be back, but there's always a feeling of danger and there's always a need for courage and energy to make that next step up through the Icefall, to Camp I, then Camp II, Camp III, Camp IV and finally to the summit.

You've also asked if there is an advantage with the familiarity that I have from my previous three climbs to challenging the mountain this year. As an aside, one never conquers the mountain; one can only challenge it and hopefully be successful in reaching the top. But familiarity is very important this year as I understand how this tortuous five-day climb to the summit after 45 days of acclimatizing, and going up and down the mountain at various elevations, will make a difference.

I think the familiarity eliminates, not eliminates but certainly reduces dramatically, any element of fear that exists going through the Icefall, or going up the Lhotse Face which is all blue ice.

"When one looks up, in the morning coming out of their tent, towards the mountain, humility is just overwhelming; a special feeling among all of us that we are essentially nothing, we are little pebbles of sand in a big world..."
Familiarity and the previous experience of living with a daily challenge, and weather conditions, and the danger of sickness and injury is very helpful. It's terrifically good to be back but it doesn't change the amount of work that is required to challenge the mountain and to reach the top.

The way that I'm approaching the push up the mountain towards the summit is greater anticipation with an enormous amount of respect, and determination, courage, and an unlimited amount of patience. The past five days we've been sitting waiting for the weather to break to head for Camp II and then Camp III.

All of this, plus the people that I'm climbing with, plus the Sherpa help, teaches one courage, patience and humility. When one looks up, in the morning coming out of their tent, towards the mountain, humility is just overwhelming; a special feeling among all of us that we are essentially nothing, we are little pebbles of sand in a big world. And that helps us in our climbing because it helps us focus, and stay focused on each step and the next step.

You've asked, Peter [Potterfield, MountainZone.com publisher], if it's still personally rewarding to be making such a personal effort. The answer is absolutely 'yes.' The rewards are physical, mental, emotional and spiritual. These are rewards that I will carry back to the city of Chicago where I conduct, and lead, Mid-North Financial Services in its next 20 years, May 1st being our 20th anniversary. And, at my age, I don't think I'll be around another 20 years, but I certainly will be around for some years. And having climbed Everest, and the other summits, and other mountains, prepares me emotionally, physically, and mentally, for the requirements of running a major mortgage banking company in Chicago.

Whatever be the outcome of my fourth attempt, I am again humbled by the dedication of Vern Tejas, Doc (Bryce Brown of Canada), and the climbing and support Sherpa, who make our return possible and have brought blessings, and safety, and spiritual wealth to me and my character. I am a stronger person for having returned to the mountain, and for having once again climbed with Vern, and Bryce, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa, who heads the Sherpa contingency. God be with you and God be with all the climbing people on the mountain this year.

Al Hanna, Alpine Ascents International Climber and MountainZone.com Correspondent

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