According to the agency's website, Bearzi and partner Bruce Miller left Kathmandu on April 9 in order to attempt an alpine-style (single push, no support) first ascent of this never mapped mountain. The pair were also attempting to determine the true height of this remote mountain high on the Qutar Glacier. The unofficial height is 7952 meters.
Explore Himalaya reported that the whereabouts of Miller and Namgyal Sherpa are not known at this point.
Bearzi was a member of the 2000 K2 Expedition covered live by MountainZone.com. That year, attempting the North Ridge route, Bearzi and team were turned away by weather.
Mike Bearzi K2 Photo | ||
In early 1990s, as one of the most prominent pioneers of modern mixed climbing, Bearzi invented the "M system," a widely accepted method of ranking mixed climbs. In 1986, he did the first free ascent of Cerro Torre, on its West Face. He also has been to Everest three times, in 1992, 1993 and 1995, including two alpine-style attempts on the North Face and its Great Couloir Route without oxygen or any support.
The 1993 and 1995 climbs were attempted during summer monsoon weather and both times Bearzi was turned back.
Bearzi also has put up new routes in Alaska, and in 1981, climbed Alaska's Devil's Thumb and Mt. Burkett. He started climbing along Colorado's Front Range in 1976.
Bearzi, a master craftsman and carpenter, leaves his wife Renee.
MountainZone.com Staff