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...lord of all."
— George Mallory
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Just the Facts

Annual Stats
S2'53D
U'54 E
M'55A
M4'56 T
I'57 H
T'58 S
S'59
3'60 1
'61
'62 1
6'63 1
'64
9'65
'66 1
'67
'68
'69 1
4'70 8
'71 1
'72 1
10'73 1
'74 6
15'75 2
4'76 1
2'77
25'78 2
18'79 6
10'80 3
5'81 1
18'82 11
23'83 3
17'84 8
30'85 7
4'86 4
2'87 4
50'88 10
24'89 8
72'90 4
38'91 2
90'92 5
129'93 8
51'94 5
83'95 3
98'96 15
85'97 9
125'98 4
116'99 3
Data from The New York Times
No Higher: At 29,035' (8850m), about five miles up, the world's highest summit is at about the cruising altitude of a jet or 23 times the height of the Empire State building.

Set Your GPS: 86° 56' E   27° 59' N

Local Names: in Nepal: Sagarmatha (means: churning stick in the sea of existence); in Tibet: Chomolungma (means: mother goddess of the universe). Once known to Westerners as Peak XV, Everest was renamed in 1859 for Sir George Everest, the British surveyor general of India.

Thin Air: Decreasing atmospheric pressure at high altitude means there are less oxygen molecules in a given space. At the top of Mount Everest, the actual percentage of oxygen in the air is the same as that at sea level (about 20%). However, the atmospheric pressure at the summit of Everest is 33% that of sea level. So if you had a shoe box full of air, there would be 66% less oxygen in the box at the summit of Everest than at sea level. Each breath pulls in 33% of the oxygen as that at sea level. SEE EVEREST FROM SPACE (123k image).

The Death Zone: Above 26,000' there's about a third of the oxygen available at sea level. Even acclimated, the body begins to shut down, and if a person stays that high long enough, they will die. Most climbers use oxygen here for climbing and sleeping.

Because It Is There: in 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, of Great Britain, were last seen going strong for the top on the north side of the mountain. It is unknown if they reached the summit before disappearing, although the discovery of Mallory's body last year is shedding new light on the debate. In 1921, Mallory had led the first-ever expedition to Everest.

Wind: climber David Breashears has compared the ominous sound of evening winds on the upper mountain to that of a 747 jet endlessly taking off.

Narrow Window: weather on Everest permits reasonable climbing only in May and October between winter snows (December-March) and summer monsoons (June-September).

Best and Worst Years: in 1965, nine climbers summitted and there were no deaths. In 1996, 15 climbers perished, the most in any single year.

Total Ascents and Deaths: 808 climbers (764 men and 44 women) have stood on the summit (for a total of 1052 ascents) and 161 have perished, 36 on the descent.

First Ascent: 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary, New Zealand, and Tenzing Norgay, Nepal, via the South Col Route. Neither has ever said who stepped on the summit first.

Fastest Ascent: October 17, 1998, Kaji Sherpa of Nepal climbed Everest in 20 hours 24 minutes to break Frenchman Marc Batard's longstanding mountaineering record set in October 1990 when Batard did it in 22 hours 29 minutes.

Most Summits: 10 summits by Ang Rita Sherpa of the Solu-Khumbu region of Nepal. On May 26, 1999, Apa Sherpa of Nepal reached the summit at 11am and tied Ang Rita's record.

Longest Time Spent on the Summit: on May 7th, 1999, Babu Chirri Sherpa of Nepal set a new record by spending 21 hours on the summit without oxygen.

Youngest Summitter: Shambu Tamang of Nepal, 16, reached the summit on May 5, 1975.

Oldest Summitter: Lev Sarkisov (12/2/38) of Georgia reached the summit on May 12, 1999. At 60 years and 161 days old, he beat Spaniard Ramon Blanco's record by one day.

First Oxygenless Ascent: 1978, Reinhold Messner, of Italy, and Peter Habeler, of Austria, via the Southeast Ridge.

First Solo Ascent: 1980, Reinhold Messner via the North Col to the North Face.

First Ascent by a Woman: 1975, Junko Tabei, of Japan, via the Southeast Ridge.

First Ascent by an American: 1963, James Whittaker via the Southeast Ridge.

First Ascent by an American Woman: 1988, Stacy Allison, via the Southeast Ridge.

Routes Climbed on Everest
1) Southeast Ridge from the South Col (Original Route), 1953
2) North Ridge from the North Col (Chinese Route), 1960
3) West Ridge by the Hornbein Couloir (American Route), 1963
4) Southwest Face, 1975
5) West Ridge Direct (Jugoslav Route), 1979
6. North Face by the Hornbein Couloir (Japanese Route), 1980
7) North Face from the North Col (Messner Route), 1980
8) South Pillar (Polish Route), 1980
9) Southwest Face Central Pillar (Russian Route), 1982
10) East Face by the Central Pillar, 1983
11) North Face by the Great Couloir, 1984
12) East Face and Southeast Ridge, 1988
13) Northeast Ridge Integrale, 1988 (incomplete to summit)


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