EVEREST NORTH FACE SKI EXPEDITION 1997

Updates From Everest

Craig Calonica
Calonica
Sites at Miktinath Monastery
Friday, August 8, 1997 (Muktinath)

Hello again,
Rain, rain and more rain, finally a break and so we left Kagbeni around 10 a.m. and walked up to Muktinath at 3,795 meters (12,460 feet). It was a delightful muddy, slippery, slimy walk, nothing but fun I tell you. The only thing missing was some of my good old friends the leaches. Too bad, just a bit too high for those little critters to hang out.

Muktinath is a small village/monastery located at the bottom of the trekkers dreaded Thrungla La Pass at 5,416 meters (17,700 feet). For the trekkers who are doing the Annapurna circuit this pass is the biggie. During the peak season you always hear tales and horror stories from the trekkers about Thrungla La Pass. If you happen to come here during peak season October-November you will find hundreds and hundreds of trekkers holed up at Thrung Phedi, the last depot, getting psyched up for the big day. Some never make it past this point due to altitude illness and must turn around and go back. It's really quite a scene, just about all walks of life and ages are going through this area and pass -- quite an entertaining moment all on it's own.

The Monastery..... ever seen natural gas coming straight out of the ground and on fire? If not, come to Muktinath and it's all your's. This is one of the main attractions at the Muktinath monastery. The fire is enclosed in a sacred room all to itself. The first time I saw it I was a bit shocked. I immediately thought of the scenario if it ever went out and the local Lama had to light it back up again. Hmmn... doesn't sound good, does it? One thing is for certain, it could solve the cold winter months for these folks if they ever decided to pipe it in into their homes, but that will be a long time coming as the gods would forbid it.

There is also a holy spring running through the monastery which is channelled into 108 brass boar heads. The boar heads have open mouths which the water pours through, providing Tibetan's with a bathing area and full spiritual cleansing to boot. The number 108 is the magic number for these folks and so hence the 108 boar heads.

Everyone is doing well and is in great health. Say hi to all from Muktinath. Some photos coming to you soon.

-- Craig Calonica, Expedition Leader

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