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Trekking Peru

Darkness was falling across the snow-capped mountains of Huscaran National Park as Sean Hudson and I hiked along the steep incline leading to Laguna 69, a campsite nestled at 14,000 feet in the heart of the Andes.

"If I could throw down my pack and go home now, I would," I complained as the altitude was taking its toll on my body. After a brief discussion we decided to call off our rendezvous with two female Danish hikers, whom we had met the day before in Huaraz.

After pitching the tent and eating dinner I began to feel better. Despite leaving the States in the best shape of my life, ascending from sea level in two days was a taxing feat. As I lay in my sleeping bag, thoughts of the awaiting adventure soothed my headache and lulled me to sleep.

The following morning we were greeted by our Danish acquaintances, Helle and Rikki, who were descending from a rough night in the laguna. A rented stove failed to light and crows bombarded their campsite. We shared hot coffee with them before they departed to catch a collectivo back to Huaraz.

Peru has become an alpine nirvana, the new hot spot du jour, gracing magazine covers of Travel & Leisure, Rock and Ice and Bicycling this year. In the Cordillera Blanca range alone, 50 peaks stand between 16,000 and 22,205 feet high. Access to the trailheads is attained within a few hours of the town of Huaraz through public transportation.

Over the past couple of years, Sean and I have become notorious for turning our trips into epic adventures. A failed attempt on the Grand Teton last August, due to poor planning and deteriorating conditions, left an indelible black mark on our mountaineering resumes. Peru would be a chance to rekindle our love affair with multi-day backpacking. We decided to do a four-day 61 km traverse through the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca.

Rated as one of the top five treks in the world by numerous magazines, the Llanganuco to Santa Cruz trail offers the most scenic views of the Peruvian landscape. Sean and I hitched a ride from the trailhead of Pisco Base Camp with a family who was sightseeing. As we rode in the back of a pickup truck along the narrow road of crushed limestone, we enjoyed fresh plantains and chevallis, a sweet Peruvian snack passed to us by the mother. Before reaching the top of the climb, the truck stopped and we took turns taking photographs for one another. An hour later we were dropped off at Vacqueria, a one-houe town where our trek would begin.

The trail was well-maintained for the first couple of miles as we passed through numerous villages. Unfortunately, someone defaced all the trail markings in an attempt to confuse travelers. As we turned up a switchback, a family, who lived off the trail, caught our attention and pointed in the right direction. "Santa Cruz, Santa Cruz," a young boy of about four yelled as he motioned for us to follow him through his family's backyard. Once we found a clear trail we thanked him with a piece of gum. After hiking uphill for four hours we were surprised to find five kids with an impromptu beverage stand. Our cokes, chilled by a nearby stream, were bought for three soles, the equivalent of $1.26. The youths then pointed to an area on our map, a green valley, where we set up camp that evening.

From Cashapampa we took a two-hour ride in the back of a truck to Yungay. In Yungay we hired a taxi to drive us back to Pisco Base Camp to retrieve an equipment bag. A quarter mile before Pisco, the cab slowed to a stop and the two drivers demanded more money. After exchangin words and near blows, one of the men ran to get a park ranger to settle the dispute. With the ranger in the cab we drove to the camp, only to find our bag and over $3,000 in climbing equipment stolen. Our dreams of climbing Pisco, a 19,500 ft. peak, were dashed.

I paid the drivers to take us back to our hotel in Huaraz, an hour and a half drive. Halfway to town the cab drivers told us to go to another cab, who had bought our services. We were assured a ride back to our hotel, yet when we reached the outskirts of Huaraz, a group surrounded us and we were told to get out of the cab. We were forced to walk solemnly down the dusty roads to our hotel on the other side of town.

A PERSONAL GUIDE TO THE ANDES

When to go: The dry season last from April through September, with June and July being the preferred months.

How to get there: Fly to Lima from the U.S., but shop around because prices can range anywhere from $950 on American to $650 on Air Servencia. AeroPeru and LanChile also fly from the States. A passport is required, but the country will issue a 90-day visa on entry.

Where to stay: In Lima, try Hostel Iquique, Jr. Iquique, (758) 433-4724. At $8.50 a night it's cheap, but clean. Even if you pay $16 a night, you may not find a nicer room elsewhere. In Huaraz, look no further than Edward's Inn, 722-6921. Edward in a New York native and will allow you to store your luggage while you are in the backcountry. Rooms run about $8.50 a night per person.

Don't leave without:

  • A water filter. You have to wonder about a country where beer and cokes cost 42 cents and bottled water is $1.80.
  • Traveler's checks, which are easily replaced within a few days, if stolen.
  • A hidden waist pouch, which can be a life saver in a third world country. Although armed robbery is rare, snatch theft is quite common.
  • A Spanish/English dictionary which goes a long way.
Join: The South American Explorer's Club. Although I was not a member and Sean was, the club, headed by Bill Glick, helped me recover a lost bag my first day in Lima. For $35 you know you have a friend south of the equator. Maps and trip reports are available to members.

No Matter What DO NOT:

  • Eat chevicheria, a lemon-peppered fish.
  • Pay a cab fare until you reach your destination.
  • Exchange money until you reach Lima. The exchange rate at the airport is outrageous.
  • Take a taxi directly outside the airport. You can walk 20 feet and pay a third of the rate.
  • Eat prepared food off the streets.
  • Stay in Lima any longer than you need.
No Matter What DO:
  • Carry a lot of change in soles, the local currency.
  • Hire camp guardians to watch your camp when you are away.
  • Haggle over prices.
  • Watch for scams (people bumping into you, children fighting, other distractions).
  • Bring all you own gear whether trekking or climbing. The rental stuff is outdated and in poor condition - - unless of course you happen along some which was formerly ours.
Inter-city travel: If Robin Leach was traveling from Lima to Huaraz, he would definitely be aboard Cruz Del Sur, a luxury bus which provides meal service, American movies and in-town taxi service. An eight-and-a-half hour bus ride costs a mere $8.50. From Lima to Yungay, take an hour-long taxi ride for 84 cents with 32 of your closest friends in a Toyota mini-van.

-- A. Patrick Roy, Mountain Zone Pubster

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