Extremely difficult new route on the granite big wall of Madagascar 670 m, 13 pitches from 35-60 m, max. difficulty 8a+, obligated difficulty 7b, 96 bolts + 26 bolts on belays, descent: rappel down the route.

The climbing expedition "Madagascar 98", composed of Rolando Larcher, age 33, from Trento (Italy), Marco Sterni, 33, and Erik Svab, 27, both from Triest (Italy), was very successful on the steep walls of Madagascar.

"In the almost unexplored valley with big walls of compact granite, in the southwest of the Island, rises the massive of Andringitra with the highest summit reaching 2.600 m above sea level..."

In the almost unexplored valley with big walls of compact granite, in the southwest of the Island, rises the massive of Andringitra with the highest summit reaching 2.600 m above sea level. The east side of the mountain Tsaranoro boasts the most imposing face: 2.000 m wide and 800 m high; it consists of three independent summits: the two of them have been reached by the routes "Gondwanaland" from Gargitter and co. and "Out of Africa" from Motto and co., the third was not climbed at all. It is located on an isolated plateau, reachable with a jeep after a three days drive and walk. The base camp was established near the village of Tanambao, 1.000 m, from where it took them another 2 hours walking to reach the foot of the wall.

In 5 days the three climbers opened a new route on a vertical and overhanging 700 m high wall. September 16, 1998 they reached a previously unconquered summit. In accordance with the local people, they baptized the peak Tsaranoro Atsimo (Tsaranoro South), 2.000 m. The new route has been climbed and protected from below, it is 670 m long, with difficulties reaching 8a+ (X-).

Technical data: 670 m, 13 pitches from 35-60 m, 96 bolts on route and 26 bolts on belays, max. difficulty 8a+, obligated difficulty 7b, descent: rappel down the route. Singles pitches: 6a+, 45 m, 6 bolts ; 6a, 55m, 6 b.; 6c+/7a, 45 m, 7 b.; 6c+, 40 m, 9 b.; 7b, 45 m, 9 b.; 7c, 45 m, 11 b.; 7b+, 40 m, 9 b.; 8a+, 50 m, 11 b.; 7a+,35 m, 7 b.; 6c+, 60 m, 7 b.; 6c, 35 m, 5 b.; 6c+/7a, 45 m, 5 b.; 6a, 60 m, 4 b.; III, 70 m.

The number of bolts used makes you understand, that the bolts were placed approximate every 6 m and the route isn't really a sport climbing route, but a severe climb which requests severe psychological efforts as well as top physical capacities. It is possible to fall over 15 m on the hardest pitch of 8a+, and over 25 m on some other pitches, while there are some single passages on the route where you simply cant afford to fall as it would have been too dangerous.

Beside that the three climbers made also the first free ascent of their route in red point style (excluding the hardest pitch, climbed with one rest), on September 24, in 8 hours. For repeating the route 11 quick draws and two 60 m long ropes are needed.

The new route "Never the same" is the hardest climb in these mountains and very probably one of the hardest free ascended new routes in the world, outside Europe.

"Due to extremely compact rock with no cracks it is impossible to protect oneself with classic rock pitons, friends and stoppers, finding it absolutely necessary to use bolts, placing them while hanging in skyhooks..."

The route on mostly vertical granite follows the flakes, small holds and little knobs for pinches with two fingers on the hardest pitches. Due to extremely compact rock with no cracks it is impossible to protect oneself with classic rock pitons, friends and stoppers, finding it absolutely necessary to use bolts, placing them while hanging in skyhooks. Beside that it was necessary to use a particular mini-generator to produce electricity and to recharge the empty batteries of the digital video camera, which has been used in order to register the life on the wall and at the base camp. The granite differs from the famous one on Mont Blanc or in the Yosemite Valley, no dihedrals and cracks can be found, and the moves must be extremely precise and well balanced.

The three climbers decided to choose this area for their playground, as it had been almost unknown till their arrival. They saw the possibility to climb a hard new route in the style they were familiar with from their own mountains (Dolomites, Julian Alps and Carnian Alps): ascending free, placing their own pro from below, trying to find a route with obligatory difficulties as high as possible.

The summit is flat and from all the sides surrounded by the walls, so it is impossible to reach the summit other way than climbing. The members of the expedition haven't found any human signs at the top. Speaking to the locals, they decided to call the three peaks of Tsaranoro: Atsimo (South), Be (Big), and Kely (Little).

The new route was called "Never the same" because Larcher, Sterni and Svab are sure that will ever again be possible to climb such a nice and difficult route on such a magnificent wall in such a calm and unspoiled atmosphere. Beside that it is very probably that the peaceful and remote valley at the feet of Tsaranoro will soon be intruded by other climbers and tourists from all over the world.

The choice of the climbing period proved ideal throughout the month of September (it was necessary to wear a pile because of the wind, while waiting and protecting at the belays). The fact that they stayed at the plateau of 1000 m a.s.l. helped them not to suffer the heat and at the same time to perform their best while climbing.

At the expedition took part also their friends Ermanno Francinelli and Mario Cavagnini from Brescia (Italy). They also succeeded in realizing their plans, as they were able to repeat the hard route "Gondwanaland" (7b+, 800 m) on the Tsaranoro Be.

— Erik Svab, Mountain Zone Pubster