Mortenson

This is Swenson's fourth attempt on GIV. The American climbers represent the most talented combined team in the Karakoram this year. With good weather and luck, driven on by Steve's tenacity to fulfill a 16-year quest, the team has a good chance to summit.

Gasherbrum IV

The upper part of GIV, above 7,500 meters, involves extremely complex, 5.10+ climbing up hard marble. They have Andy DeKlerk along specifically for this section. With his engines revved up, there are few cruxes that DeKlerk cannot surmount. Those of you who have seen DeKlerk with his mangy, unkempt hair, working his way up a wall know what I mean. Go get 'em Andy!

Nearby, on Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters), Chris Boskoff, Greg Ritchie, and Jeff Rhoads are also on their way up to GII's summit after being turned back several times by weather in the last five weeks.

It's curtain call in the Karakoram.

Nearly all this season's climbers have left the Baltoro. Ironically, the best climbing weather in the Karakorams usually comes between mid August and early September when the winds shift from a southern direction to the dry, high pressure systems off the Tibetan and Xinjiang (China) Plateau.

Towering Spires

Many local high altitude porters, guides, and travelers who frequent the Karakoram this time of year often wonder why expeditions come to the Karakoram in June, sit out four or more weeks of storms in July, and then go home. A week or two later, the Karakoram skies generally become crystal clear, and the nights shine bright with with millions of stars carrying with them the ancient folklore of the local Balti people.

For those dedicated climbers who waited for the final curtain call in the Karakoram, we send them the very best on their way to the top and a safe return home. When I sent my first dispatch, I described what it is like to stand at Concordia Camp and watch the alpenglow crawl up the last few hundred meters of GIV, "The Shining Wall." For lack of words, I'll close with that again:

At Concordia, I imagine myself sitting in a giant hall listening to the strains of a colossal symphony. And in the evening, when alpenglow climbs up GIV's "Shining Wall," the symphony ends with a lone porter's solo encore of the "Hazzan." Nothing could be more perfect.

Ishkomen Valley: First Ascents Galore
An Italian expedition spent the summer climbing in the seldom-explored Ishkoman Valley of the Hunza Region. They made several first ascents of 5,000+ meter, granite walls and spires, including their most significant climb, the first ascent of a mountain which they christened "Asso Peak" (1,300 meters) in honor of their hometown. They rated Asso as Grade V, 5.10. Most of the peaks in the area are unnamed, and several are not on maps.

"Most of the peaks in the area are unnamed, and several are not on maps..."

The Italian expedition was led by Angelo Rusconi. Other members were Christian Cattivelli, David Valsecchi, Simone Rossetti, and Luciana Giampa. Each team member has visited Pakistan several times and has an interest in exploring new, unclimbed regions.

This is Greg, over and out from the Karakoram.

— Greg Mortenson, MountainZone.com Correspondent