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Karakoram '99

Kohistan on the KKH
Kohistan Tribal Region, Pakistan

July 31, 1999

Greg
Mortenson

Climbers often say the worst part of a Karakoram expedition is the arduous 24-hour Karakoram Highway (KKH) ride from Rawalpindi/Islamabad to Skardu. The KKH is a test of steel nerves along the precipitous Indus River Gorge, through some of the most wild and rugged regions in Pakistan. But it's also a grand adventure that no one ever forgets.

Da Bus
Bus to Skardu
About six hours north of Rawalpindi and Islamabad, the KKH enters the Kohistan Tribal Region. This region is inhabited by Kohistanis, who belong to the Pattan ethnic group. Kohistan means 'land of the mountains.' Pattans claim to be ancestors of Alexander the Great's army, which rolled through the Khyber Pass into Pakistan in 328 B.C.. Today, Pattans are spread out over a large area in Afghanistan and Pakistan.

Kohistani Region Pattan tribesmen pack a mean punch with 40 9mm bullet-clip loaded AK47s (Kalishnokoff semi-automatics). This is considered to one of the most dangerous areas to travel in Pakistan. Kohistan's previous name was Yaghistan, meaning 'land of the ungovernable.'

"The KKH is a test of steel nerves along the precipitous Indus River Gorge, through some of the most wild and rugged regions in Pakistan..."

Until recently, Kohistani Pattans were notorious for their nighttime robberies of cash-loaded passenger vans and buses. Something like Wells Fargo stagecoach robberies in a modern day wild, wild west. Except in Kohistan, there is no booze or barroom brawls. The Pakistani government has a hands-off policy here and tribal people are semi-autonomous. Despite their reputation, Pattans regulate themselves with a centuries-old tribal code of conduct that beats any gang law in the Bronx or Watts.

Pattan guests are afforded overwhelming hospitality. Nothing is spared to see that guests are comfortable. They protect guests with their lives, no matter who it is. An example of a protected Pattan guest would be Osama Bin Laden in Afghanistan.

When a member of a community has committed an infraction, a jirga 'tribal council of elders' meets to come up with an equitable solution. Normally, an entire collective community has to pay a fine if a perpetrator of their community is found to be guilty. Afterwards, the community deals with the perpetrator themselves. Punishment can be swift and brutal.

"Kohistani Region Pattan tribesmen pack a mean punch with 40 9mm bullet-clip loaded AK47s (Kalishnokoff semi-automatics)..."

For centuries, Kohistani Pattans made their income from taxing or robbing caravans passing through their valley, which is one of the many routes that made up the ancient Silk Road. In the mid-'70s, the KKH was completed and joined Kohistan to the outside world. With that came modern day technology, Angrezi (white man) tourists, and many changes.

Most travelers who pass through this rugged and mystic place are in a hurry to get to the high Karakoram via Skardu or Gilgit. Or they are blazing back to Islamabad on an epic journey to catch a flight home. It is unfortunate, as they miss a unique chance to experience incredible hospitality, see dramatic scenic beauty and share ageless traditions that start less than five minutes off the KKH. Once a Pattan has met you, he will never forget. For me, it's a treasure to take time out in Kohistan, be welcomed with a warm embrace and enjoy good times with old Pattan friends over endless cups of chir chai (milk tea).

Khudar Hawala mil doost: 'Allah Almighty be with you in parting, my friend.'

Greg Mortenson, MountainZone.com Correspondent



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