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Bio:
Jeff Alzner
Expedition Leader and Climber Portland, OR Age: 41
As K2000 expedition leader, Alzner, 41, of Portland, Oregon, believes the team
members must eat the best meals of their lives and have a ton of fun but
also suffer for the summit. He first learned about rock climbing with Lute
Jerstad in 1972, and over the next dozen years progressed to Canadian
waterfall ice and Yosemite's El Capitan. In 1985, he found altitude agreed
with him on Denali's West Buttress. A year later he took an exploratory trip
to Nepal with Dr. Fred Ziel, checking out the Annapuran area trekking peaks.
In 1987, he got stormed off Ama Dablam's North Ridge just short of the
summit.
During the next eight years he climbed in Wyoming and did numerous
winter ascents of Mt. Hood, gaining bad weather experience. Then it was back
to the Himalaya. He climbed Pakistan's Broad Peak in 1995, got to 24,500
feet on Cho Oyu in 1997 and became the third American to reach the summit of
Manaslu in 1999. Still a bachelor and without children, he is a self-employed
landscape contractor and nursery grower, with a small business owner's
down-to-earth pragmatism, sense of organization and biting sense of humor. "I
always wanted to climb K2 since I found out about it. It's the ultimate
mountain," he says, adding with a laugh, "climbing is a hard way to go
nowhere."
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