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EXPEDITION ITINERARY

Day 1: Arrive in Talkeetna . Climbers will arrive in Talkeetna at about noon. After introductions, orientation and final gear check they will board a 185 Cessna aircraft to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier (7,300ft). Upon arrival the climbers will prepare Base Camp.

Day 2: Glacier Travel review

Day 3: Carry loads to Camp I (7,900ft). Snowshoes may be necessary between camps on the lower part of the mountain. Double carries are sometimes made between most camps to allow for proper acclimatization and lighter load carries.

Day 4: Move to Camp I.

Day 5: Carry loads to Camp II (10,000ft), at Kahiltna Pass. This route follows the Kahiltna Glacier.

Day 6: Move to Camp II.

Day 7: Carry gear to Camp III (11,500ft). The climbers will turn west and ascend steep terrain. Camp III offers exquisite views and vistas of the 3,000ft rock and ice face on the edge of the West Buttress.

Day 8: Move to Camp III.

Day 9: Carry gear to Camp IV(14,200ft). The team will pass around Windy Corner, which exposes stunning panoramic views of surrounding peaks and the northeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier, 4,000ft below.

Day 10: Move to Camp IV. Depending upon climbing conditions, we may spend an extra day moving gear to Camp IV. This will aid acclimatization and break up the long carry.

Day 11: Rest and acclimatize Camp IV. The upcoming ascent is the most demanding part of the climb.

Day 12: Carry loads to Camp V (16,400ft). From Camp IV we ascend 1,100ft of moderate snow slopes to reach the beginning of the fixed lines. Using ascenders on the lines to self-belay, we ascend the Headwall, which consists of 900ft of 45°-50° snow and ice. Upon reaching the crest of the West Buttress, we enter the world of the mountaintops. The climb takes on an entirely different nature as the feeling of being amongst the clouds and peaks dominates the senses.

Day 13: Move to Camp V.

Day 14: Carry and move to Camp VI (17,200ft). We follow an exposed ridge around Washburn's Tower, which merges into the main massif of Denali. Camp VI is established on a saddle just above Rescue Gully and overlooks Camp IV, 3000ft below us.

Day 15: Rest day. Rest and prepare for the summit attempt.

Day 16: Summit day. We traverse across a steep snow face to Denali Pass. From here we follow gentle slopes to reach Archdeacon's Tower and a large plateau at 19,400ft, known as the Football Field. From the plateau we ascend on moderate terrain to the crest of the summit ridge. From this vantage point, we look upon the immense 8,000ft South Face, with Cassin Ridge and the South Buttress in full view. As we follow an exposed ridge up the last 300ft, excitement grows as we approach the top of North America. From the summit we'll have a 360° view of the Alaska Range, with Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington to the south and Mt. Foraker to the west. These peaks, along with scores of others, mark this mountain view as one of the most impressive in the world. At the end of the day we will return from the summit to spend the night at high camp.

Days 17-18: Return to Base Camp. From High Camp we spend two days returning to Base Camp where we will board our Cessna and return to Talkeetna and then on to Anchorage.

Days 19 - 21: Extra Days. Extra days for inclement weather and acclimatization may be utilized at any point on the expedition.

Day 21: Return to Talkeetna

Note: This itinerary represents an ideal schedule. Due to the nature of climbing Denali, there may be delays due to weather. It is important to keep schedules slightly flexible, as we will take extra days if necessary to give everyone the best possible chance of success. A detailed logistics package will be forwarded to each team member. Our staff will work closely with all Denali climbers.



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