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Czech Route on Denali Repeated
15 JULY 2000

In late May, Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore completed the second ascent of the Czech Route on Denali. The route, first climbed in 1984, starts at 11,500 feet and parallels the Cassin Ridge. Mahoney, from New Hampshire, and Gilmore, living on four wheels since 1993, took a week to complete the route, which still had relics of the first ascent, including fixed rope and pitons. Largely protected from the hanging glaciers and serac fall, it presents a classic line of mixed climbing.

"The climbing varied from 50-60 degree snow/alpine ice on several snow bands," said Gilmore, "and a couple of hanging glaciers to water ice climbing on classic pitches of up to WI5+ with overhanging sections to lots of scratchy mixed climbing over snowy rock up to M5/6 or so."

When asked why the route had never been repeated, Gilmore replied, "I'm not sure why the route hadn't seen a second ascent or even a second attempt until now, maybe just because it's big and nasty, or maybe because you have to break trail up the east fork of the Kahiltna to get to the base."

The relatively unknown duo of Mahoney and Gilmore apparently scooped well known alpinists Mark Twight, Scott Backes and Steve House, who were also intent on doing the route. The talented trio quickly knocked off the third ascent in a blistering 60 hours.

Early this year Gilmore, with Brady Robinson, completed a significant new variation to the Casarotto Route on the North Pillar of Fitz Roy.

Matt Stanley, MountainZone.com staff

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